Why is it important to provide toys?
Toys are important because they provide:
~Mental stimulation. Without challenging activities to occupy your rabbit when you're not home, your rabbit, especially a solitary rabbit, will get bored. This could lead to depression and/or excessive destruction. The creative use of toys can extend your rabbit's life by keeping him interested in his surroundings, by giving him the freedom to interact with those surroundings, and by allowing him to constantly learn and grow.
~Physical exercise. Your rabbit needs safe activities to keep her body in shape as well as her mind. She needs things to climb on, crawl under, hop on and around, dig into, and chew on. Without outlets for these physical needs, your rabbit may become fat or depressed, or may create jumping, chewing, or crawling diversions with your furniture.
~Bunny proofing for your home. As is clear from the above descriptions, toys are not just for your rabbit, they also keep your house safe. By providing your rabbit with a selection of toys chosen to meet her age, sex, reproductive status and temperament, you have fulfilled most of the requirements of bunnyproofing your home.
What are good bunny toys?
If you find your rabbit ingesting plastic or cardboard toys, switch to a different type of toy that the rabbit is not interested in eating.
Some good toys to start with:
~Paper Bags and Cardboard boxes for crawling inside, scratching, and chewing. Bunnies like them much more when there are at least two entry points into the boxes. Chris Rosenzweig has some Great Tips on Building Bunny Box Toys
~Cardboard concrete forms for burrowing
~Cardboard roll from paper towels or toilet paper
~Untreated wicker baskets or boxes full of: shredded paper, junk mail, magazines, straw, or other organic materials for digging
~Yellow Pages for shredding
~Cat toys: Batta balls, and other cat toys that roll or can be tossed
~Parrot toys that can be tossed, or hung from the top of the cage and chewed or hit
~Baby toys: hard plastic (not teething) toys like rattles and keys, things that can be tossed
~Children's or birds' mobiles for hitting
"Lazy cat lodge" (cardboard box with ramps and windows) to climb in and chew on. ~Also, kitty condos, tubes, tunnels, and trees
~Nudge and roll toys like large rubber balls, empty Quaker Oat boxes and small tins
"Busy Bunny" toys
~Plastic Rainbow slinkies
~Toys with ramps and lookouts for climbing and viewing the world
~Dried out pine cones
~Jungle gym type toys from Toys R Us
~A (straw) whisk broom
~A hand towel for bunching and scooting
~Untreated wood, twigs and logs that have been aged for at least 3 months. Apple tree branches can be eaten fresh off the tree. Stay away from: cherry, peach, apricot, plum and redwood, which are all poisonous.
~Untreated sea grass or maize mats from Pier One or Cost Plus
~Things to jump up on (they like to be in high places)
~Colorful, hard plastic caps from laundry detergent and softener bottles. They have great edges for picking up with their teeth, make a nice "ponk" sound when they collide, and the grip ridges molded into the plastic make a neat "rachety" sound when rabbits digs at the cap. The caps are nice for human-stacks-on-floor and bun-knocks-down kind of games. Note: Be sure not to choose caps from caustic material bottles (e.g.drain uncloggers, bathroom cleaner bottles) since a residue of the cleaner might remain no matter how much washing off you do
Saturday, June 2, 2007
Diapering
What we typically do is use diapers (huggies #1 or some other brand of size 1) to keep the bun dry. I pull the diaper, still folded, from the package, and cut a hole out of the butt end of it. When you unfold it, it is in exactly the right spot for the tail to poke out. I like this because the tail stays dry and also the poops come out, which prevents them from mixing with the urine and getting all mushy. Then I usually lay the rabbit on a nice synthetic sheepskin rug wherever he wants to be. Your rabbit may be mobile with his front legs, in which case he'll just pull himself around your house with those. My last guy, Dandelion, was super strong with his front legs and could move very fast. So I just let him do what he wanted, and changed his diaper twice or three times a day.
Feeding
In terms of feeding, if your bun's appetite is still good, then he can eat anything he wants, as much as he wants. You want to provide food for him ALL the time, to keep his weight up (he'll lose quite a bit just from a loss of muscle mass). If his appetite is not very good, you can syringe feed him a pellet slurry (recipe in House Rabbit Handbook) and also baby food carrots, squash, applesauce, and stuff like that (step 1). Sometimes when they first get paralyzed the appetite goes away, and if you syringe feed him, it'll start to come back bit by bit till he's eating 100% on his own. That's what happened with Dandelion. So don't be too discouraged if at first he doesn't want to eat or drink on his own.
Keeping Spirits Up
Beyond that, just give him lots of attention, and make sure he doesn't feel isolated.
What we typically do is use diapers (huggies #1 or some other brand of size 1) to keep the bun dry. I pull the diaper, still folded, from the package, and cut a hole out of the butt end of it. When you unfold it, it is in exactly the right spot for the tail to poke out. I like this because the tail stays dry and also the poops come out, which prevents them from mixing with the urine and getting all mushy. Then I usually lay the rabbit on a nice synthetic sheepskin rug wherever he wants to be. Your rabbit may be mobile with his front legs, in which case he'll just pull himself around your house with those. My last guy, Dandelion, was super strong with his front legs and could move very fast. So I just let him do what he wanted, and changed his diaper twice or three times a day.
Feeding
In terms of feeding, if your bun's appetite is still good, then he can eat anything he wants, as much as he wants. You want to provide food for him ALL the time, to keep his weight up (he'll lose quite a bit just from a loss of muscle mass). If his appetite is not very good, you can syringe feed him a pellet slurry (recipe in House Rabbit Handbook) and also baby food carrots, squash, applesauce, and stuff like that (step 1). Sometimes when they first get paralyzed the appetite goes away, and if you syringe feed him, it'll start to come back bit by bit till he's eating 100% on his own. That's what happened with Dandelion. So don't be too discouraged if at first he doesn't want to eat or drink on his own.
Keeping Spirits Up
Beyond that, just give him lots of attention, and make sure he doesn't feel isolated.
Overview
Rabbits are very sensitive creatures and they stress very easily. Your veterinarian or a veterinary technician will probably show you how to give pills, administer eye or ear drops, or syringe feed your rabbit. But sometimes rabbits who are as good as gold when they're at the clinic put up quite a struggle when you try the same procedure at home. Every rabbit/person pair will work out their own routines. But to give you a head start, members of the House Rabbit Society have pooled their experience and come up with the following tips for medicating bunnies at home.
Getting Set Up
Because your rabbit may act up a bit once you start to medicate her, it's important to make things as easy as possible for her and for you.
1.The first step is figuring out the best place to do the procedure. Some rabbits are most cooperative if you treat them on the floor, usually when they're feeling very relaxed. Other rabbits may simply hop away from you if you start fiddling with them on the floor; those rabbits may need to be medicated on a table, a bed, a countertop, or in your lap. If you're using a table or countertop, be sure to clear away any glasses, knives, or objects with sharp edges.
Rabbits who are very squirmy or who nip may need to be wrapped in a "bunny burrito." Every one has a different way of wrapping their rabbit, but the general idea is to place your rabbit on top of a flat towel, then wrap the towel tightly (not too tightly!) around her legs and body. Wrapping diagonally (i.e., from shoulder towards hip) helps to keep the towel secure.
Some people put the towel over the rabbit, then pick him from behind, and wrap the towel up around his hind legs and tummy. The basic idea is that you're wrapping the rabbit to keep him from squirming or running away.
2.Once you've found a spot, get out all your supplies: a towel (see below), the medication, syringes (if need be), and treats, if you decide to make that a part of the whole procedure. You don't want to end up scrambling for supplies while trying to hold a squirmy bunny. You especially don't ever want to leave a rabbit on top of a table or countertop unattended, while you look for that elusive tube of ointment. Unscrew tops, measure out medication, and load syringes before you go get the rabbit. That way you'll have two free hands.
3.Maintain a cheerful and patient attitude. Sometimes your rabbit may perform what San Francisco veterinarian Dr. Jeffrey Bryan calls a "rabbit rodeo," complete with bucking, rearing, squealing, and kicking. If you get tense or impatient, the rabbit will just get more stressed. Talk to your rabbit, sing little songs, kiss her nose, rub her ears鱠o anything you can to help her feel calm.
4.Develop a routine. Try to do things in the same order, in the same place, every day. That way the rabbit knows when you are beginning and ending the procedure, and he won't live in constant fear that you're going to start torturing him. Some people also give their rabbits little treats, like a raisin or a big sprig of parsley, after each medication. That helps take the rabbit's mind off his medication woes. It also gives him a signal that the procedure is over, for the time being at least.
Oral Medications
Some oral medications don't taste like much of anything; some are very bitter. And some rabbits will swallow just about anything, while some will curl their tender lips at anything that even hints of medicine. House Rabbit Society members haven't quite come up with fifty ways to disguise the medications, but here are some suggestions.
If your veterinarian has prescribed medication in tablet form:
Try offering Thumper the tablet right out of your hand. Some actually will take it that way (except Cipro-yuck!).
Put the whole tablet in a piece of Thumper's favorite treat (banana, apple).
Crush the tablet and mix it with some of Thumper's favorite food (applesauce, yogurt*, baby food vegies). You can grind up pills with the butt of a knife, a mortar, or hammer, or dissolve them with a little hot water, and then mix them in with applesauce, jam, banana, a little fruit or V8 juice, babyfood (vegetables or fruit flavors), vanilla yogurt, vanilla-flavored Ensure, Nutrical, ground up pellets, or fresh fruit. You can put half a tablet inside a raisin, a piece of banana, a stalk of celery, or wadded up leaves of basil. You also can give your rabbit two papaya tablets, one medicine pill, and then two papaya pills. See? He didn't even notice!
Crush the tablet and mix it with a favorite liquid (see administering liquid medication). You can also dissolve the pill in water or a little fruit juice and syringe feed it into the rabbit's mouth. Let the pill dissolve in the fluid in the syringe for a few minutes, then shake it. Either on the tabletop or on the floor, put the syringe into the corner of the rabbit's mouth, with the tip pointing sideways and depress gently, allowing your rabbit to chew and swallow slowly. If too much comes out, he won't aspirate (get fluid into his lungs--very dangerous), so pointing to the side prevents squirting out too much. Keep some baby wipes or a wet washcloth on hand to wipe up anything that gets on the rabbit's face. NOTE: Be extra careful NOT to tip your rabbit backwards while doing this (on your lap or against your chest). A rabbit can choke if the liquid gets into his lungs. Keep him sitting upright.
Note: Yogurt or acidophilus are strongly recommended when your rabbit is receiving any type of antibiotic to keep normal gut flora.
If your veterinarian has prescribed medication in liquid form:
Put the liquid in a small dish next to Thumper - some rabbits will lick it up and that's all there is to it! Liquid medications sometimes come in a fruit-flavored suspension. Some rabbits think these concoctions are the best thing since sliced carrots. Others will take one sniff and run under the bed. Try mixing the medicine with something that you know your rabbit absolutley adores, like a ripe juicy peach, oatmeal, a banana, or real strawberries. (Some HRS members put three or four treats together at once for a big moosh of a medicine casserole.) Then feed it on a flat plate, rather than in a bowl. That helps the fumes to disperse. If no one's watching, you can feed it to the rabbit in little bits on a spoon. We don't want you to be accused of spoiling your rabbit or anything.
Mix the liquid with some of Thumper's favorite food (banana, applesauce, etc.)
Put Thumper on the counter with his rear-end tight against your stomach/chest area. With the measured liquid medication in a syringe (available from your vet) or eye-dropper, take your left hand and bring it around Thumper's face and lift up his lip on the right side. Take the syringe or eye-dropper and put it behind Thumper's front teeth. Slowly depress the syringe or eye-dropper, letting Thumper swallow the liquid at his own pace. (NOTE: this procedure is also used for force feeding).
Eye Drops and Eye Ointments
When it comes to eye drops, most people are either "uppies" or "downies." That is, some people prefer to pull the lower eyelid out, to form a little pocket into which to squirt the medicine. Others prefer to lift the upper eyelid back, and drop the medication onto the eyeball itself or the white of the eye itself.
This is usually done quite easily on the floor; most rabbits hardly blink (sorry) at the procedure. (Some rabbits, in fact, seem to think this is their owner's strange way of showing affection.) Some people like to do it with the bunny on a waist-high surface, however, so they can stabilize him with one hand and medicate with the other.
If you're putting ointment in, try not to touch the eyeball with the nozzle. And once you squirted it into the eye, you can gently hold the eye shut and massage it to melt and spread the ointment. Otherwise it sometimes clumps and floats off the eyeball.
Ear Drops
Rabbits like to have their ears stroked. They generally are not big fans of having liquid squirted down there though. It feels weird and it sometimes makes a mess of their ears and faces, which, of course, hurts their egos. That means that sometimes rabbits are most uncooperative about this procedure.
You can try administering ear drops on the floor, but a smart rabbit will vote with her feet--that is, she'll hop away after the first squirt. It's often easier to do it on a tabletop, where you can secure her with one hand.
The first trick with ear drops is to get the nozzle pretty close to the ear's actual opening (never push anything down beyond that opening though!). That way, when the rabbit shakes her head, the medicine will go down into the ear instead of all over your kitchen. The second trick is to try not to hit the inside surface of the ear with the nozzle itself. This tickles and it will make the rabbit shake her head, which makes it very hard to aim.
Once the drops are in, you can massage the base of the ear to help it go down and get spread around. You can wipe off any liquid that dripped onto her cheeks as well鱰hat will help her dignity.
Syringe Feeding
If your rabbit stops eating, your vet may suggest that your "force" or "syringe" feed your rabbit. This just means that you're making some kind of food mixture and giving it to your rabbit through a big syringe. Your rabbit may be very calm about this procedure at the vet's office. Chances are, he'll throw quite a fit when you try it at home.
Syringe feeding is really an art and a science, and it takes practice, patience and creativity to figure out how to do it. Nevertheless, we swear it can be done and doing so often makes the difference between life and death.
CAUTION: syringe-feeding can cause the rabbit to inhale food, with serious consequences or death.
Always check with a rabbit vet first. The ampunt of food (cc's) will be based on rabbit size. Don't force - make sure the rabbit swallows. In general, Take your time, use less rather than more and point syringe to the side and go slowly.
Your vet will probably recommend some find of pellet "slurry" for your rabbit. One standard recipe is 1/2 cup of pellets, blended with one cup of water, one tablespoon of psyllium husks, and one tablespoon of acidolopholus or Prozyme. You can throw it all in a blender or food processor; keep blending until it appears shiny. (Never give your rabbit straight psyllium, as it can suck the liquid out of the rabbit's gut and cause serious problems.)
Load the syringe with the recommended amount. Put your rabbit up on a countertop or table. You can wrap the rabbit up in a bunny burrito if you think she'll need it. Then:
1) point her nose towards the right (if you're right handed)
2) curl left arm around her body
3) tell her she's the cutest
4) pick up loaded syringe with right hand
5) tuck the nozzle into the corner of bunny's mouth
6) point somewhat to the side, so if too much comes out, the bunny will not aspirate. Go slow..less is better than more, give him time to swallow; don't let fluid go down the lungs.
7) keep giving a little more as she chews
8 praise rabbit vigorously, tell her you know it's a drag
9) wipe slurry off tabletop and walls, reload into syrringe
10) when you've given her a good dose, quickly wipe off her cheek with a warm wet rag, so it doesn't cake on there for the next three months.
Some people also do this with the rabbit cradled in the crook of their arm. Again, be sure not to choke the rabbit with the slurry.
Melissa's Banana-Pellet Balls
For rabbits who aren't eating because they've just had surgery, have sore teeth, or who are elderly or are depressed, you might also try the very famous Melissa's Banana-Pellet Balls, developed by Elizabeth TeSelle. These are high-protein and high-fat and not suitable as a steady diet for young healthy rabbits.
You will need
electric coffee grinder ($12.00 at Target or Wal-Mart)
1/2 banana
1/3 c. pellets
rolled oats (bulk rolled oats from a health food store or Quaker Old Fashioned rolled oats -- NOT quick-style)
non-dairy acidophilus, ProZyme, or whatever else you need or want to add
Mash 3/4-1 banana in a shallow bowl with a fork. Add acidophilus and mash it in. Grind up 1/3 - 1/2 c. dry pellets in coffee grinder until they are dust, and add slowly to banana. Cream the pellet dust into the banana with a fork just as you would cream butter and sugar. The mixture will be very stiff. When fully blended, add a small amount of rolled oats and cream again.
Form the mixture into stiff balls with your hands. It should make 2-3 balls, enough for one or two meals per day. Discuss the amount with your vet and weigh your rabbit weekly to ensure that she is maintaining weight (or gaining, if that is what is desired).
Some rabbits may like the mixture firmer and others may like it gooier. Experiment a little to see what your bunny prefers. You can add a little less pellet dust to make it gooier, or make the recipe as is and add a small amount of banana baby food. Do not add water, as it provides no calories.
Other helpful tips when Thumper has to visit the vet
If Thumper has a friend, bring the friend along - it's less stressful to have a buddy along to commiserate with you.
If Thumper has to stay at the vet (i.e., after surgery) most vets will allow his friend to be there with him (possibly in the cage next door, depending on Thumper's condition). NOTE: Your veterinarian may suggest physical separation so that he can monitor appetite, thirst, urination, defication, etc.
If, heaven forbid, Thumper should pass away, please let his friend say good-bye to him. It may sound morbid but your bunnies life may depend on it. If his friend does not see Thumper after Thumper has died, he won't know what has happened and he could die from depression. Each rabbit will say goodbye differently and will take different amounts of time. Some rabbits will lay next to their buddy, some will groom him, some will ignore him. Just keep on eye on Thumper and when he stays away from the body - his goodbyes have been said. NOTE: If Thumper has been sick for a long time, his friend may already have said goodbye - you'll know this because formerly loving bunnies won't pay attention to each other anymore. If this happens and you haven't taken your bunny to the vet - do so immediately!
Rabbits are very sensitive creatures and they stress very easily. Your veterinarian or a veterinary technician will probably show you how to give pills, administer eye or ear drops, or syringe feed your rabbit. But sometimes rabbits who are as good as gold when they're at the clinic put up quite a struggle when you try the same procedure at home. Every rabbit/person pair will work out their own routines. But to give you a head start, members of the House Rabbit Society have pooled their experience and come up with the following tips for medicating bunnies at home.
Getting Set Up
Because your rabbit may act up a bit once you start to medicate her, it's important to make things as easy as possible for her and for you.
1.The first step is figuring out the best place to do the procedure. Some rabbits are most cooperative if you treat them on the floor, usually when they're feeling very relaxed. Other rabbits may simply hop away from you if you start fiddling with them on the floor; those rabbits may need to be medicated on a table, a bed, a countertop, or in your lap. If you're using a table or countertop, be sure to clear away any glasses, knives, or objects with sharp edges.
Rabbits who are very squirmy or who nip may need to be wrapped in a "bunny burrito." Every one has a different way of wrapping their rabbit, but the general idea is to place your rabbit on top of a flat towel, then wrap the towel tightly (not too tightly!) around her legs and body. Wrapping diagonally (i.e., from shoulder towards hip) helps to keep the towel secure.
Some people put the towel over the rabbit, then pick him from behind, and wrap the towel up around his hind legs and tummy. The basic idea is that you're wrapping the rabbit to keep him from squirming or running away.
2.Once you've found a spot, get out all your supplies: a towel (see below), the medication, syringes (if need be), and treats, if you decide to make that a part of the whole procedure. You don't want to end up scrambling for supplies while trying to hold a squirmy bunny. You especially don't ever want to leave a rabbit on top of a table or countertop unattended, while you look for that elusive tube of ointment. Unscrew tops, measure out medication, and load syringes before you go get the rabbit. That way you'll have two free hands.
3.Maintain a cheerful and patient attitude. Sometimes your rabbit may perform what San Francisco veterinarian Dr. Jeffrey Bryan calls a "rabbit rodeo," complete with bucking, rearing, squealing, and kicking. If you get tense or impatient, the rabbit will just get more stressed. Talk to your rabbit, sing little songs, kiss her nose, rub her ears鱠o anything you can to help her feel calm.
4.Develop a routine. Try to do things in the same order, in the same place, every day. That way the rabbit knows when you are beginning and ending the procedure, and he won't live in constant fear that you're going to start torturing him. Some people also give their rabbits little treats, like a raisin or a big sprig of parsley, after each medication. That helps take the rabbit's mind off his medication woes. It also gives him a signal that the procedure is over, for the time being at least.
Oral Medications
Some oral medications don't taste like much of anything; some are very bitter. And some rabbits will swallow just about anything, while some will curl their tender lips at anything that even hints of medicine. House Rabbit Society members haven't quite come up with fifty ways to disguise the medications, but here are some suggestions.
If your veterinarian has prescribed medication in tablet form:
Try offering Thumper the tablet right out of your hand. Some actually will take it that way (except Cipro-yuck!).
Put the whole tablet in a piece of Thumper's favorite treat (banana, apple).
Crush the tablet and mix it with some of Thumper's favorite food (applesauce, yogurt*, baby food vegies). You can grind up pills with the butt of a knife, a mortar, or hammer, or dissolve them with a little hot water, and then mix them in with applesauce, jam, banana, a little fruit or V8 juice, babyfood (vegetables or fruit flavors), vanilla yogurt, vanilla-flavored Ensure, Nutrical, ground up pellets, or fresh fruit. You can put half a tablet inside a raisin, a piece of banana, a stalk of celery, or wadded up leaves of basil. You also can give your rabbit two papaya tablets, one medicine pill, and then two papaya pills. See? He didn't even notice!
Crush the tablet and mix it with a favorite liquid (see administering liquid medication). You can also dissolve the pill in water or a little fruit juice and syringe feed it into the rabbit's mouth. Let the pill dissolve in the fluid in the syringe for a few minutes, then shake it. Either on the tabletop or on the floor, put the syringe into the corner of the rabbit's mouth, with the tip pointing sideways and depress gently, allowing your rabbit to chew and swallow slowly. If too much comes out, he won't aspirate (get fluid into his lungs--very dangerous), so pointing to the side prevents squirting out too much. Keep some baby wipes or a wet washcloth on hand to wipe up anything that gets on the rabbit's face. NOTE: Be extra careful NOT to tip your rabbit backwards while doing this (on your lap or against your chest). A rabbit can choke if the liquid gets into his lungs. Keep him sitting upright.
Note: Yogurt or acidophilus are strongly recommended when your rabbit is receiving any type of antibiotic to keep normal gut flora.
If your veterinarian has prescribed medication in liquid form:
Put the liquid in a small dish next to Thumper - some rabbits will lick it up and that's all there is to it! Liquid medications sometimes come in a fruit-flavored suspension. Some rabbits think these concoctions are the best thing since sliced carrots. Others will take one sniff and run under the bed. Try mixing the medicine with something that you know your rabbit absolutley adores, like a ripe juicy peach, oatmeal, a banana, or real strawberries. (Some HRS members put three or four treats together at once for a big moosh of a medicine casserole.) Then feed it on a flat plate, rather than in a bowl. That helps the fumes to disperse. If no one's watching, you can feed it to the rabbit in little bits on a spoon. We don't want you to be accused of spoiling your rabbit or anything.
Mix the liquid with some of Thumper's favorite food (banana, applesauce, etc.)
Put Thumper on the counter with his rear-end tight against your stomach/chest area. With the measured liquid medication in a syringe (available from your vet) or eye-dropper, take your left hand and bring it around Thumper's face and lift up his lip on the right side. Take the syringe or eye-dropper and put it behind Thumper's front teeth. Slowly depress the syringe or eye-dropper, letting Thumper swallow the liquid at his own pace. (NOTE: this procedure is also used for force feeding).
Eye Drops and Eye Ointments
When it comes to eye drops, most people are either "uppies" or "downies." That is, some people prefer to pull the lower eyelid out, to form a little pocket into which to squirt the medicine. Others prefer to lift the upper eyelid back, and drop the medication onto the eyeball itself or the white of the eye itself.
This is usually done quite easily on the floor; most rabbits hardly blink (sorry) at the procedure. (Some rabbits, in fact, seem to think this is their owner's strange way of showing affection.) Some people like to do it with the bunny on a waist-high surface, however, so they can stabilize him with one hand and medicate with the other.
If you're putting ointment in, try not to touch the eyeball with the nozzle. And once you squirted it into the eye, you can gently hold the eye shut and massage it to melt and spread the ointment. Otherwise it sometimes clumps and floats off the eyeball.
Ear Drops
Rabbits like to have their ears stroked. They generally are not big fans of having liquid squirted down there though. It feels weird and it sometimes makes a mess of their ears and faces, which, of course, hurts their egos. That means that sometimes rabbits are most uncooperative about this procedure.
You can try administering ear drops on the floor, but a smart rabbit will vote with her feet--that is, she'll hop away after the first squirt. It's often easier to do it on a tabletop, where you can secure her with one hand.
The first trick with ear drops is to get the nozzle pretty close to the ear's actual opening (never push anything down beyond that opening though!). That way, when the rabbit shakes her head, the medicine will go down into the ear instead of all over your kitchen. The second trick is to try not to hit the inside surface of the ear with the nozzle itself. This tickles and it will make the rabbit shake her head, which makes it very hard to aim.
Once the drops are in, you can massage the base of the ear to help it go down and get spread around. You can wipe off any liquid that dripped onto her cheeks as well鱰hat will help her dignity.
Syringe Feeding
If your rabbit stops eating, your vet may suggest that your "force" or "syringe" feed your rabbit. This just means that you're making some kind of food mixture and giving it to your rabbit through a big syringe. Your rabbit may be very calm about this procedure at the vet's office. Chances are, he'll throw quite a fit when you try it at home.
Syringe feeding is really an art and a science, and it takes practice, patience and creativity to figure out how to do it. Nevertheless, we swear it can be done and doing so often makes the difference between life and death.
CAUTION: syringe-feeding can cause the rabbit to inhale food, with serious consequences or death.
Always check with a rabbit vet first. The ampunt of food (cc's) will be based on rabbit size. Don't force - make sure the rabbit swallows. In general, Take your time, use less rather than more and point syringe to the side and go slowly.
Your vet will probably recommend some find of pellet "slurry" for your rabbit. One standard recipe is 1/2 cup of pellets, blended with one cup of water, one tablespoon of psyllium husks, and one tablespoon of acidolopholus or Prozyme. You can throw it all in a blender or food processor; keep blending until it appears shiny. (Never give your rabbit straight psyllium, as it can suck the liquid out of the rabbit's gut and cause serious problems.)
Load the syringe with the recommended amount. Put your rabbit up on a countertop or table. You can wrap the rabbit up in a bunny burrito if you think she'll need it. Then:
1) point her nose towards the right (if you're right handed)
2) curl left arm around her body
3) tell her she's the cutest
4) pick up loaded syringe with right hand
5) tuck the nozzle into the corner of bunny's mouth
6) point somewhat to the side, so if too much comes out, the bunny will not aspirate. Go slow..less is better than more, give him time to swallow; don't let fluid go down the lungs.
7) keep giving a little more as she chews
8 praise rabbit vigorously, tell her you know it's a drag
9) wipe slurry off tabletop and walls, reload into syrringe
10) when you've given her a good dose, quickly wipe off her cheek with a warm wet rag, so it doesn't cake on there for the next three months.
Some people also do this with the rabbit cradled in the crook of their arm. Again, be sure not to choke the rabbit with the slurry.
Melissa's Banana-Pellet Balls
For rabbits who aren't eating because they've just had surgery, have sore teeth, or who are elderly or are depressed, you might also try the very famous Melissa's Banana-Pellet Balls, developed by Elizabeth TeSelle. These are high-protein and high-fat and not suitable as a steady diet for young healthy rabbits.
You will need
electric coffee grinder ($12.00 at Target or Wal-Mart)
1/2 banana
1/3 c. pellets
rolled oats (bulk rolled oats from a health food store or Quaker Old Fashioned rolled oats -- NOT quick-style)
non-dairy acidophilus, ProZyme, or whatever else you need or want to add
Mash 3/4-1 banana in a shallow bowl with a fork. Add acidophilus and mash it in. Grind up 1/3 - 1/2 c. dry pellets in coffee grinder until they are dust, and add slowly to banana. Cream the pellet dust into the banana with a fork just as you would cream butter and sugar. The mixture will be very stiff. When fully blended, add a small amount of rolled oats and cream again.
Form the mixture into stiff balls with your hands. It should make 2-3 balls, enough for one or two meals per day. Discuss the amount with your vet and weigh your rabbit weekly to ensure that she is maintaining weight (or gaining, if that is what is desired).
Some rabbits may like the mixture firmer and others may like it gooier. Experiment a little to see what your bunny prefers. You can add a little less pellet dust to make it gooier, or make the recipe as is and add a small amount of banana baby food. Do not add water, as it provides no calories.
Other helpful tips when Thumper has to visit the vet
If Thumper has a friend, bring the friend along - it's less stressful to have a buddy along to commiserate with you.
If Thumper has to stay at the vet (i.e., after surgery) most vets will allow his friend to be there with him (possibly in the cage next door, depending on Thumper's condition). NOTE: Your veterinarian may suggest physical separation so that he can monitor appetite, thirst, urination, defication, etc.
If, heaven forbid, Thumper should pass away, please let his friend say good-bye to him. It may sound morbid but your bunnies life may depend on it. If his friend does not see Thumper after Thumper has died, he won't know what has happened and he could die from depression. Each rabbit will say goodbye differently and will take different amounts of time. Some rabbits will lay next to their buddy, some will groom him, some will ignore him. Just keep on eye on Thumper and when he stays away from the body - his goodbyes have been said. NOTE: If Thumper has been sick for a long time, his friend may already have said goodbye - you'll know this because formerly loving bunnies won't pay attention to each other anymore. If this happens and you haven't taken your bunny to the vet - do so immediately!
Introduction
The following may seem like a lot of work to go through to find a veterinarian, but your rabbits' well being depends upon finding the most experienced veterinary care available. We hope that within another few years, veterinarian schools will begin to understand rabbits well enough so that veterinarians can be properly trained before they run across a rabbit in their practice. The other problem is that veterinarians not trained in rabbit medicine should be responsible enough to refer you to another veterinarian. Instead many just see the green of your money and say to themselves, "sure I'm a vet, I can see your pet, after all it's only a rabbit". When you find a veterinarian who is honest enough to refer you to someone else, be sure to refer people to him/her and if you have cats or dogs, give him that business. It's really great to work with an honest vet!
How do I Start the Search?
Start the search before you have an emergency!
Check the House Rabbit Society's recommended veterinarian list first to see if there are any recommended rabbit veterinarians listed in your area. You might also want to check the list of vets who attended our recent vet conference. Next check the yellow pages for veterinarians who advertise as "exotic" (includes, rabbits & rodents). Then randomly select 5 veterinarians who do NOT advertise as avian or exotic.
(Editor's Note: A comprehensive online listing of veterinarians in the USA is now available. This is another alternative to the yellow pages)
Phone these veterinarians and ask who they refer their clients to if they have a serious rabbit case. If all 5 veterinarians give you the name of the same veterinarian, ok. If not, then randomly select another 5 veterinarians and continue the process until you have a clear "winner".
Phone several (start with 3) veterinarians in cities within 50 miles of you and ask the same question: who do they refer their clients to if they have a serious rabbit case. (One House Rabbit Society volunteer passes by at least 15 clinics to get to her veterinarian who is 35 miles away.)
At this point you should have either a clear "winner" or several veterinarians to choose from. The next step is to phone the vet. Let the front office person know that you are concerned with finding the very best veterinarian to care for your rabbit and that you would like to speak directly to the doctor at his/her convenience. Leave both your work and home phone number and specific times that the veterinarian can get hold of you (and be there) or ask what would be a good time for you to call back (when the veterinarian is between appointments).
What screening questions should I ask?
See Section 4.7 for questions specific to spaying and neutering.
Ask how many rabbits are seen at the clinic each week.
Ask how many rabbits are spayed or neutered each week.
Ask if they know which antibiotics are dangerous for rabbits (amoxicillin and most of the "...cillin" drugs like penicillin. Also see below).
Casually ask about preventing hairballs. Q: "What's the best way to prevent hairballs?" A: "Provide your rabbit with hay every day, preferably 24 hours a day. Provide daily exercise and brush frequently"
Ask if food has to be removed the night before surgery. The answer should be "no". Rabbits should never be fasted.
You might also want to ask which conferences they've attended lately that had talks about rabbit medicine and what journals they read. We want our veterinarians to be up on the latest in rabbit treatment.
If you don't get the "right" answers to the above questions, continue your search.
What shouldn't I do?
Do not make your choice based on how close the veterinarian is to your home (unless that veterinarian is the clear "winner"). Paying money to a veterinarian who does not know anything (or very little) about rabbits is just throwing your money away and can cost the life of your companion.
Don't assume that just because a veterinarian works with breeders or local 4-H clubs, that they are experienced with house rabbits or the medical needs of older rabbits. Unfortunately, such veterinarians often tend to approach rabbits as stock animals rather than as beloved companions. They may never have done a spay or neuter and "treatment" of any difficulty may amount to euthanasia (when dealing with stock or show animals, the financial bottom line may be the primary consideration).
Antibiotics that should never be given to rabbits. Even one dose of the following can be deadly: Amoxicillin, lincomycin, clindamycin.
The following may seem like a lot of work to go through to find a veterinarian, but your rabbits' well being depends upon finding the most experienced veterinary care available. We hope that within another few years, veterinarian schools will begin to understand rabbits well enough so that veterinarians can be properly trained before they run across a rabbit in their practice. The other problem is that veterinarians not trained in rabbit medicine should be responsible enough to refer you to another veterinarian. Instead many just see the green of your money and say to themselves, "sure I'm a vet, I can see your pet, after all it's only a rabbit". When you find a veterinarian who is honest enough to refer you to someone else, be sure to refer people to him/her and if you have cats or dogs, give him that business. It's really great to work with an honest vet!
How do I Start the Search?
Start the search before you have an emergency!
Check the House Rabbit Society's recommended veterinarian list first to see if there are any recommended rabbit veterinarians listed in your area. You might also want to check the list of vets who attended our recent vet conference. Next check the yellow pages for veterinarians who advertise as "exotic" (includes, rabbits & rodents). Then randomly select 5 veterinarians who do NOT advertise as avian or exotic.
(Editor's Note: A comprehensive online listing of veterinarians in the USA is now available. This is another alternative to the yellow pages)
Phone these veterinarians and ask who they refer their clients to if they have a serious rabbit case. If all 5 veterinarians give you the name of the same veterinarian, ok. If not, then randomly select another 5 veterinarians and continue the process until you have a clear "winner".
Phone several (start with 3) veterinarians in cities within 50 miles of you and ask the same question: who do they refer their clients to if they have a serious rabbit case. (One House Rabbit Society volunteer passes by at least 15 clinics to get to her veterinarian who is 35 miles away.)
At this point you should have either a clear "winner" or several veterinarians to choose from. The next step is to phone the vet. Let the front office person know that you are concerned with finding the very best veterinarian to care for your rabbit and that you would like to speak directly to the doctor at his/her convenience. Leave both your work and home phone number and specific times that the veterinarian can get hold of you (and be there) or ask what would be a good time for you to call back (when the veterinarian is between appointments).
What screening questions should I ask?
See Section 4.7 for questions specific to spaying and neutering.
Ask how many rabbits are seen at the clinic each week.
Ask how many rabbits are spayed or neutered each week.
Ask if they know which antibiotics are dangerous for rabbits (amoxicillin and most of the "...cillin" drugs like penicillin. Also see below).
Casually ask about preventing hairballs. Q: "What's the best way to prevent hairballs?" A: "Provide your rabbit with hay every day, preferably 24 hours a day. Provide daily exercise and brush frequently"
Ask if food has to be removed the night before surgery. The answer should be "no". Rabbits should never be fasted.
You might also want to ask which conferences they've attended lately that had talks about rabbit medicine and what journals they read. We want our veterinarians to be up on the latest in rabbit treatment.
If you don't get the "right" answers to the above questions, continue your search.
What shouldn't I do?
Do not make your choice based on how close the veterinarian is to your home (unless that veterinarian is the clear "winner"). Paying money to a veterinarian who does not know anything (or very little) about rabbits is just throwing your money away and can cost the life of your companion.
Don't assume that just because a veterinarian works with breeders or local 4-H clubs, that they are experienced with house rabbits or the medical needs of older rabbits. Unfortunately, such veterinarians often tend to approach rabbits as stock animals rather than as beloved companions. They may never have done a spay or neuter and "treatment" of any difficulty may amount to euthanasia (when dealing with stock or show animals, the financial bottom line may be the primary consideration).
Antibiotics that should never be given to rabbits. Even one dose of the following can be deadly: Amoxicillin, lincomycin, clindamycin.
Red Urine
Rabbits' urine varies in color from clear to yellow to brown to bright red. This is usually not a cause for alarm unless there are additional signs such as sitting and straining to urinate, loss of appetite or temperature. When you see red urine, don't panic. Just keep your eyes open for other signs that might indicate a problem. If in doubt, you can have your veterinarian test to see whether there is blood in the urine.
Amoxicillin Danger
Never let a veterinarian give your rabbit amoxicillin. It is a pink liquid antibiotic that smells like bubble gum. Amoxicillin is very dangerous for rabbits, and has killed many more than it has helped. Any penicillin-based drug can be dangerous for your rabbit, so try to find a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about rabbit-safe antibiotics, and who is familiar with the safer drugs such as Chloramphenicol, Tetracycline, sulfa-drugs based like Septra or TMS, or enrofloxins such as Baytril or Cipro.
Cedar and Pine Shavings
These are very bad for your rabbit and other pets. The aromatic hydrocarbons produced from softwood beddings can cause both respiratory and liver damage in rabbits and other small animals. Use organic litter in the litter box and put newspaper in the cage tray.
Spay/Neuter
The House Rabbit Society has had over 1000 rabbits spayed or neutered with approximately .1% mortality due to anesthesia. On the other hand, the risk of reproductive cancer (which is fatal) for an unspayed female rabbit stands at approximately 85%, which makes spaying a necessity. For male rabbits, the benefits are primarily behavioral (eliminating spraying and hormone-related aggression), but are just as important. A knowledgeable rabbit veterinarian can spay or neuter your rabbit with very little risk to a healthy rabbit.
Teeth
Rabbits' teeth can be misaligned. This condition is known as malocclusion, which means that a rabbit's constantly-growing teeth are not wearing down properly. If the misalignment is bad, the teeth will need to be clipped periodically so that the rabbit can eat. Your veterinarian can do this for you, or can show you how to do it at home. Usually malocclusion just strikes the front teeth, but occasionally, the back teeth can also be misaligned. One indication of this is a wet chin that is caused by drooling. If this is the case, your rabbit will need his molars trimmed by a veterinarian on a regular basis.
Hairballs
Rabbits shed their hair every three months. Every second shedding is light, followed three months later by a heavy shedding. This is an important factor in rabbit deaths. You need to brush and comb your rabbit to get the hair off of them when they start to shed. Rabbits groom themselves like cats and will ingest all of the loose hair, which they cannot vomit as can cats. For this reason, besides regular grooming, they must have constant access to fresh hay every day, as the fiber helps the hair pass through the digestive system. You can also give your rabbit cat hairball preparations such as Petromalt or Laxatone once a week when not shedding and daily during their molt. Finally, daily exercise is another important factor in the prevention of hairballs.
Surgeries
Make sure your rabbit is in good health prior to elective surgeries. Food and water should not be removed from a rabbit the evening before surgery! Any change in diet can upset a rabbit's sensitive digestive tract and cause problems in post- operative recovery.
One of the reasons some veterinarians recommend removing animals' food before surgery is the possibility that they may vomit. Rabbits cannot throw up, thus this is not a concern. Additionally, some veterinarians are concerned about spaying rabbits with a full cecum. Unfortunately, the cecum would take 3-4 days of fasting to empty out, and by that time, the rabbit would be dead. So please, do not fast your rabbit before surgery!
After surgery, make sure the rabbit's cage is clean, and check her incision site daily for swelling or discharge. Do everything you can to get your rabbit to eat again as soon as possible after returning home. To coax him to eat again, you may have to offer a variety of treats, including his regular pellets and hay. If your rabbit has not eaten for 48 hours after surgery, consult your veterinarian.
Bacterial Infections
The first indication of an infection may be a runny nose or eye, sometimes a high temperature, sometimes a rattling sound from the lungs or (rarely) a coughing sound. It is important to see your veterinarian as soon as the first symptoms of any infection appear, as they are more easily cured when caught in the early stages. The bacteria you may hear the most about is called Pasteurella. This used to be a major problem, but with the newer antibiotics, this bacteria can often be eliminated. And, if not totally eliminated, it can be controlled with the use of long term antibiotics. Most of the symptoms described are quite common for many types of bacteria, so it is important to have your veterinarian do a culture to determine exactly what is being treated.
Digestive Problems
The following symptoms require that you see your veterinarian immediately. Diarrhea--as in human children, diarrhea in rabbits can be fatal. Rabbits have various kinds of diarrhea, if it's runny, messy and smelly it's easy to identify. A more subtle form of diarrhea (which does not require the urgency of runny diarrhea) is when the droppings appear to be normal, but "squash" when you touch or sweep them up. You may also see "clumpy" diarrhea. This will be the consistency of silly putty, with normal round droppings mixed in. Diarrhea usually requires antibiotics from your veterinarian. Other signs to watch for are loud tummy growling, small and/or misshapen droppings or no droppings at all. See your veterinarian if any of these symptoms appear. (Veterinarians often misdiagnose this problem as being a hairball.)
Rabbits' urine varies in color from clear to yellow to brown to bright red. This is usually not a cause for alarm unless there are additional signs such as sitting and straining to urinate, loss of appetite or temperature. When you see red urine, don't panic. Just keep your eyes open for other signs that might indicate a problem. If in doubt, you can have your veterinarian test to see whether there is blood in the urine.
Amoxicillin Danger
Never let a veterinarian give your rabbit amoxicillin. It is a pink liquid antibiotic that smells like bubble gum. Amoxicillin is very dangerous for rabbits, and has killed many more than it has helped. Any penicillin-based drug can be dangerous for your rabbit, so try to find a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about rabbit-safe antibiotics, and who is familiar with the safer drugs such as Chloramphenicol, Tetracycline, sulfa-drugs based like Septra or TMS, or enrofloxins such as Baytril or Cipro.
Cedar and Pine Shavings
These are very bad for your rabbit and other pets. The aromatic hydrocarbons produced from softwood beddings can cause both respiratory and liver damage in rabbits and other small animals. Use organic litter in the litter box and put newspaper in the cage tray.
Spay/Neuter
The House Rabbit Society has had over 1000 rabbits spayed or neutered with approximately .1% mortality due to anesthesia. On the other hand, the risk of reproductive cancer (which is fatal) for an unspayed female rabbit stands at approximately 85%, which makes spaying a necessity. For male rabbits, the benefits are primarily behavioral (eliminating spraying and hormone-related aggression), but are just as important. A knowledgeable rabbit veterinarian can spay or neuter your rabbit with very little risk to a healthy rabbit.
Teeth
Rabbits' teeth can be misaligned. This condition is known as malocclusion, which means that a rabbit's constantly-growing teeth are not wearing down properly. If the misalignment is bad, the teeth will need to be clipped periodically so that the rabbit can eat. Your veterinarian can do this for you, or can show you how to do it at home. Usually malocclusion just strikes the front teeth, but occasionally, the back teeth can also be misaligned. One indication of this is a wet chin that is caused by drooling. If this is the case, your rabbit will need his molars trimmed by a veterinarian on a regular basis.
Hairballs
Rabbits shed their hair every three months. Every second shedding is light, followed three months later by a heavy shedding. This is an important factor in rabbit deaths. You need to brush and comb your rabbit to get the hair off of them when they start to shed. Rabbits groom themselves like cats and will ingest all of the loose hair, which they cannot vomit as can cats. For this reason, besides regular grooming, they must have constant access to fresh hay every day, as the fiber helps the hair pass through the digestive system. You can also give your rabbit cat hairball preparations such as Petromalt or Laxatone once a week when not shedding and daily during their molt. Finally, daily exercise is another important factor in the prevention of hairballs.
Surgeries
Make sure your rabbit is in good health prior to elective surgeries. Food and water should not be removed from a rabbit the evening before surgery! Any change in diet can upset a rabbit's sensitive digestive tract and cause problems in post- operative recovery.
One of the reasons some veterinarians recommend removing animals' food before surgery is the possibility that they may vomit. Rabbits cannot throw up, thus this is not a concern. Additionally, some veterinarians are concerned about spaying rabbits with a full cecum. Unfortunately, the cecum would take 3-4 days of fasting to empty out, and by that time, the rabbit would be dead. So please, do not fast your rabbit before surgery!
After surgery, make sure the rabbit's cage is clean, and check her incision site daily for swelling or discharge. Do everything you can to get your rabbit to eat again as soon as possible after returning home. To coax him to eat again, you may have to offer a variety of treats, including his regular pellets and hay. If your rabbit has not eaten for 48 hours after surgery, consult your veterinarian.
Bacterial Infections
The first indication of an infection may be a runny nose or eye, sometimes a high temperature, sometimes a rattling sound from the lungs or (rarely) a coughing sound. It is important to see your veterinarian as soon as the first symptoms of any infection appear, as they are more easily cured when caught in the early stages. The bacteria you may hear the most about is called Pasteurella. This used to be a major problem, but with the newer antibiotics, this bacteria can often be eliminated. And, if not totally eliminated, it can be controlled with the use of long term antibiotics. Most of the symptoms described are quite common for many types of bacteria, so it is important to have your veterinarian do a culture to determine exactly what is being treated.
Digestive Problems
The following symptoms require that you see your veterinarian immediately. Diarrhea--as in human children, diarrhea in rabbits can be fatal. Rabbits have various kinds of diarrhea, if it's runny, messy and smelly it's easy to identify. A more subtle form of diarrhea (which does not require the urgency of runny diarrhea) is when the droppings appear to be normal, but "squash" when you touch or sweep them up. You may also see "clumpy" diarrhea. This will be the consistency of silly putty, with normal round droppings mixed in. Diarrhea usually requires antibiotics from your veterinarian. Other signs to watch for are loud tummy growling, small and/or misshapen droppings or no droppings at all. See your veterinarian if any of these symptoms appear. (Veterinarians often misdiagnose this problem as being a hairball.)
The House Rabbit Handbook
This is the most complete and up-to-date resource for house rabbit information. It is stocked by many major bookstores in the United States, ans is least expensive to aquire online through Amazon.com
The House Rabbit Journal
This is sent to all members of the House Rabbit Society as part of its educational effort. It keeps members abreast of new developments in understanding and caring for our rabbit companions. To join the House Rabbit Society, use our online membership form or send $18 (non-USA residents send $25) to
House Rabbit Society
148 Broadway
Richmond, CA 94804
House Rabbit Society members receive the Journal whenever it is published, usually three or four times a year. Please remember that this is not a subscription, but a benefit of being a member of the House Rabbit Society. An online archive of past issues of the journal are available.
Local House Rabbit Society Chapters
Your local House Rabbit Society Chapter is an excellent source of information, and many local chapters hold education events, have phone supports, and may even publish their own newsletter. Local chapters are not supported financially by the national House Rabbit Society, so we encourage you to support your local chapter directly. You can locate your local chapter via our local contacts list.
The House Rabbit Society Web Site
The web site hosts all 20 sections of this FAQ as well as 100's of articles from the house rabbit journal. It is located at http://www.rabbit.org.
The EtherBun Mailing List
You'll find lots of knowledgeable House Rabbit Society educators participating in the discussions. This list is unmoderated.
Purpose: an unmoderated list to discuss house rabbit issues in general. Because the list is not moderated, it offers immediacy in case of health emergencies.
For more information on list guidelines and how to subscribe, visit http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/etherbun.html
How To subscribe to HouseBun
Send a message to: request@WashingtonHouseRabbitSociety.org with the following text in the body of the message:
SUBSCRIBE HouseBun
Purpose: a moderated list to discuss health, care & behavior of house rabbits. Because this list is moderated you will not receive off topic, nor "chatty" posts. You'll find lots of knowledgeable House Rabbit Society educators participating in the discussions.
For more information on list guidelines and how to subscribe, visit http://www.WashingtonHouseRabbitSociety.org
The PetBunny Mailing List Home Page
Homebase for the PetBunny mailing list. PetBunny is a "chatty" list for pet rabbit-lovers of all kinds. Tends to get a huge volume of mail and can get off topic from time to time.
To subscribe to PETBUNNY, snd a message to listserv@lsv.uky.edu with the following text in the body of the message:
SUBSCRIBE PETBUNNY "your name"
Once this message is processed you will receive a request for confirmation note. To complete the subscription process you must return the message to the LISTSERV address. After your request is received you will be added to the PETBUNNY mailing list. You should begin to receive mail in about a day.
alt.pets.rabbits
A usenet newsgroup for discussing rabbits.
This is the most complete and up-to-date resource for house rabbit information. It is stocked by many major bookstores in the United States, ans is least expensive to aquire online through Amazon.com
The House Rabbit Journal
This is sent to all members of the House Rabbit Society as part of its educational effort. It keeps members abreast of new developments in understanding and caring for our rabbit companions. To join the House Rabbit Society, use our online membership form or send $18 (non-USA residents send $25) to
House Rabbit Society
148 Broadway
Richmond, CA 94804
House Rabbit Society members receive the Journal whenever it is published, usually three or four times a year. Please remember that this is not a subscription, but a benefit of being a member of the House Rabbit Society. An online archive of past issues of the journal are available.
Local House Rabbit Society Chapters
Your local House Rabbit Society Chapter is an excellent source of information, and many local chapters hold education events, have phone supports, and may even publish their own newsletter. Local chapters are not supported financially by the national House Rabbit Society, so we encourage you to support your local chapter directly. You can locate your local chapter via our local contacts list.
The House Rabbit Society Web Site
The web site hosts all 20 sections of this FAQ as well as 100's of articles from the house rabbit journal. It is located at http://www.rabbit.org.
The EtherBun Mailing List
You'll find lots of knowledgeable House Rabbit Society educators participating in the discussions. This list is unmoderated.
Purpose: an unmoderated list to discuss house rabbit issues in general. Because the list is not moderated, it offers immediacy in case of health emergencies.
For more information on list guidelines and how to subscribe, visit http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/etherbun.html
How To subscribe to HouseBun
Send a message to: request@WashingtonHouseRabbitSociety.org with the following text in the body of the message:
SUBSCRIBE HouseBun
Purpose: a moderated list to discuss health, care & behavior of house rabbits. Because this list is moderated you will not receive off topic, nor "chatty" posts. You'll find lots of knowledgeable House Rabbit Society educators participating in the discussions.
For more information on list guidelines and how to subscribe, visit http://www.WashingtonHouseRabbitSociety.org
The PetBunny Mailing List Home Page
Homebase for the PetBunny mailing list. PetBunny is a "chatty" list for pet rabbit-lovers of all kinds. Tends to get a huge volume of mail and can get off topic from time to time.
To subscribe to PETBUNNY, snd a message to listserv@lsv.uky.edu with the following text in the body of the message:
SUBSCRIBE PETBUNNY "your name"
Once this message is processed you will receive a request for confirmation note. To complete the subscription process you must return the message to the LISTSERV address. After your request is received you will be added to the PETBUNNY mailing list. You should begin to receive mail in about a day.
alt.pets.rabbits
A usenet newsgroup for discussing rabbits.
Overview
A "house rabbit," allowed freedom of the home and yard, enjoys a lifestyle that is sociable, stimulating, and comfortable. However, the safety of such a lifestyle depends on control of the rabbit's environment, to eliminate or reduce the hazards found there.
What Kinds of Outdoor hazards do I need to worry about?
The most immediate hazard to an outdoor rabbit is attack by predators. While the House Rabbit Society does not keep statistics on predator attacks, we do offer a warning based on the stories relayed to us by urban and rural rabbit caretakers across the country. A backyard hutch does not protect a rabbit from predators. Incidents include attacks by dogs, feral cats, raccoons, and coyotes; and more rarely, owls, hawks, opossums, and weasels. Determined predators can bend or break wire; agile ones can open cage doors. The mere presence of predators may trigger an extreme reaction in a rabbit; a panic attack during which the rabbit runs wildly back and forth, twists, and thrashes. A rabbit in this state can break her own back, or die from a heart attack. A survivor may be permanently disabled, or develop infection from bite or claw wounds.
Because most predators hunt at night, HRS recommends that an outdoor companion rabbit be brought indoors each evening. A sturdy, covered pen within the yard is usually enough to discourage day-time attacks, especially if humans are nearby.
A rabbit, even one who is spayed or neutered, if allowed the freedom of a yard, will demonstrate the instinct of the European wild rabbit, Oryctolagus cuniculus, to dig burrows. Over a period of time these burrows may become elaborate enough to prevent the rabbit from being captured by her caretaker. This is a problem if the rabbit is frightened, injured, ill, pregnant, or otherwise in need of human help. In addition, backyard dirt may contain harmful bacteria.
Therefore, we recommend that the rabbit satisfy her urge to burrow in a pen or box filled with clean, replaceable straw. Burrowing in the earth may be discouraged by adding a wire bottom to the rabbit's pen, or by filling in burrows as they are started.
Having removed the rabbit's "natural"--but hazardous--burrow, protection must be provided from extreme weather. A rabbit whose flexible lifestyle allows her to join her human family indoors can share their comfortable environment. A rabbit who must temporarily endure heat may be cooled by hanging wet towels over the side of the enclosure, or by placing ice frozen in cardboard milk cartons inside.
Many people believe that a bunny browsing in the yard will instinctively avoid poisonous plants. Having watched a rabbit munch on an oleander leaf, I can attest this is not so! We advise making a list of all plants growing in the yard, and checking the list for poisonous plants. Until all poisonous plants are removed from the yard, the rabbit should be confined indoors, or to a pen within the yard. Another poision risk is that of potentially deadly fertilizers and pesticides used on the lawn or yard.
The outdoors presents another risk, especially for physically compromised rabbits. Any rabbit unable to completely clean her fur of urine or feces is vulnerable to fly strike, a life-threatening condition. Prevention entails once or twice a dayexamination of high risk rabbits, and regular cleaning and drying of wet or soiled fur.
Other insects threaten an outdoor rabbit. Fleas, if allowed to infest the backyard, may subject a rabbit to flea anemia. In some areas, myxomatosis, a deadly virus, may be transmitted to domestic rabbits by biting insects.
Finally, an insidious danger to an outdoor-only rabbit is inattention from his caretaker. Even though the rabbit is fed, watered, and sheltered, infrequent observation and handling may cause health problems to go unnoticed until too late.
In summary, hazards to an outdoor rabbit are minimized by a routine that allows the rabbit to come indoors when necessary (at night, during extreme weather, or when ill); and, by the socialization and close observation which accompany such a routine.
What Kinds of Indoor hazards do I need to worry about?
The more an indoor, litterbox-trained rabbit is allowed to mingle with his human family and other pets, the more he will express his personality and be enjoyed for it. Nevertheless, the House Rabbit Society recommends that an indoor cage or pen be prepared for the rabbit before bringing him home. This is for the rabbit's protection, while his caretaker assesses and reduces the hazards of her home.
Cardiogenic shock from chewing electric cords is the most immediate danger to a free-roaming rabbit. Rabbits have an instinct to quickly and casually sever any cord or string. Especially tempting are cords that run across the rabbit's path, or through a burrow-like area, such as under the couch. "Bunny-proofing" means encasing electric cords in heavy-duty plastic, or blocking cords and outlets with furniture so the rabbit cannot reach them. It is the single most important step in preparing an indoor area for a rabbit.
While supervising a rabbit is not sufficient to prevent a quick bite through an electric cord, it is useful to observe and if necessary curtail the activities of a new rabbit. Rabbits under one year of age are daredevils, jumping up, over, under, and inside of furniture. "How high can a rabbit jump?" depends on the determination and athletic ability of the individual. A fall or entrapment, panic, thrashing and injury may result from the rabbit's misjudgment.
Generally, mature rabbits are less adventurous and, after a period of observation, may be given unsupervised freedom in a bunny-proofed home.
A rabbit's tendency to chew is often more inconvenient than hazardous, but house plants should be identified and poisonous ones removed. Synthetic materials, carpet in particular, if ingested in large quantities have the potential to block the rabbit's digestive system. This can be prevented by providing natural alternatives for chewing (hay, wood, cardboard, untreated straw mats); confining the rabbit to an uncarpeted area; and spaying or neutering the rabbit to lessen the urge to modify territory.
Ironically, a rabbit so mischievous she must be caged for her protection, faces another danger. Confinement may lead to boredom, overeating, lack of exercise, and digestive problems. Possible countermeasures include: a double-decker cage which allows hopping or climbing; hay for chewing; a cage-mate; plenty of toys; and as much supervised time outside the cage as possible.
A house rabbit often finds his cage a safe haven, returning there to eat or rest. However, a wire cage can also be a hazard if the rabbit catches his toenails, paws, or teeth in the wire. If a litterbox is offered within the cage, the cage may be constructed with a solid floor. Cardboard may also be used to cover a wire floor. In the case of a nervous rabbit, cardboard may be used to cover cage sides as well. For psychological security, a cardboard nestbox may be added to the cage.
Because companion rabbits behave boldly at times, caretakers may need to be reminded that rabbits are physically fragile. Fracture of the spine can occur if the rabbit struggles while inadequately supported or if abruptly released. Safe handling methods may not be intuitive, and practice is required.1 The adult caretaker must also protect the rabbit from handling by small children, and from roughhousing with other pets. If a house cat is a companion, kitty's claws should be trimmed. A dog should be trained and supervised before interaction with the rabbit is allowed. Two strange rabbits must be introduced slowly and carefully in order to avoid fighting.
A house rabbit may enjoy walking on a harness and leash. However, even the most confident bunny may panic if suddenly aware of open space, the constraint of the harness, and the approach of an unknown animal. It is best to stay within familiar areas when walking a rabbit.
Advice about hazards to companion rabbits may be met with skepticism from rabbit caretakers. "Flopsy ate through the TV cord and she's fine." "Harvey chases cats out of the yard." We don't deny that rabbits are resilient, resourceful animals. But when longevity of our companions is a priority, we cannot afford to be complacent about safety. Our response: "If you value your rabbit, and want him to grow old, eliminate the hazards within his environment."
A "house rabbit," allowed freedom of the home and yard, enjoys a lifestyle that is sociable, stimulating, and comfortable. However, the safety of such a lifestyle depends on control of the rabbit's environment, to eliminate or reduce the hazards found there.
What Kinds of Outdoor hazards do I need to worry about?
The most immediate hazard to an outdoor rabbit is attack by predators. While the House Rabbit Society does not keep statistics on predator attacks, we do offer a warning based on the stories relayed to us by urban and rural rabbit caretakers across the country. A backyard hutch does not protect a rabbit from predators. Incidents include attacks by dogs, feral cats, raccoons, and coyotes; and more rarely, owls, hawks, opossums, and weasels. Determined predators can bend or break wire; agile ones can open cage doors. The mere presence of predators may trigger an extreme reaction in a rabbit; a panic attack during which the rabbit runs wildly back and forth, twists, and thrashes. A rabbit in this state can break her own back, or die from a heart attack. A survivor may be permanently disabled, or develop infection from bite or claw wounds.
Because most predators hunt at night, HRS recommends that an outdoor companion rabbit be brought indoors each evening. A sturdy, covered pen within the yard is usually enough to discourage day-time attacks, especially if humans are nearby.
A rabbit, even one who is spayed or neutered, if allowed the freedom of a yard, will demonstrate the instinct of the European wild rabbit, Oryctolagus cuniculus, to dig burrows. Over a period of time these burrows may become elaborate enough to prevent the rabbit from being captured by her caretaker. This is a problem if the rabbit is frightened, injured, ill, pregnant, or otherwise in need of human help. In addition, backyard dirt may contain harmful bacteria.
Therefore, we recommend that the rabbit satisfy her urge to burrow in a pen or box filled with clean, replaceable straw. Burrowing in the earth may be discouraged by adding a wire bottom to the rabbit's pen, or by filling in burrows as they are started.
Having removed the rabbit's "natural"--but hazardous--burrow, protection must be provided from extreme weather. A rabbit whose flexible lifestyle allows her to join her human family indoors can share their comfortable environment. A rabbit who must temporarily endure heat may be cooled by hanging wet towels over the side of the enclosure, or by placing ice frozen in cardboard milk cartons inside.
Many people believe that a bunny browsing in the yard will instinctively avoid poisonous plants. Having watched a rabbit munch on an oleander leaf, I can attest this is not so! We advise making a list of all plants growing in the yard, and checking the list for poisonous plants. Until all poisonous plants are removed from the yard, the rabbit should be confined indoors, or to a pen within the yard. Another poision risk is that of potentially deadly fertilizers and pesticides used on the lawn or yard.
The outdoors presents another risk, especially for physically compromised rabbits. Any rabbit unable to completely clean her fur of urine or feces is vulnerable to fly strike, a life-threatening condition. Prevention entails once or twice a dayexamination of high risk rabbits, and regular cleaning and drying of wet or soiled fur.
Other insects threaten an outdoor rabbit. Fleas, if allowed to infest the backyard, may subject a rabbit to flea anemia. In some areas, myxomatosis, a deadly virus, may be transmitted to domestic rabbits by biting insects.
Finally, an insidious danger to an outdoor-only rabbit is inattention from his caretaker. Even though the rabbit is fed, watered, and sheltered, infrequent observation and handling may cause health problems to go unnoticed until too late.
In summary, hazards to an outdoor rabbit are minimized by a routine that allows the rabbit to come indoors when necessary (at night, during extreme weather, or when ill); and, by the socialization and close observation which accompany such a routine.
What Kinds of Indoor hazards do I need to worry about?
The more an indoor, litterbox-trained rabbit is allowed to mingle with his human family and other pets, the more he will express his personality and be enjoyed for it. Nevertheless, the House Rabbit Society recommends that an indoor cage or pen be prepared for the rabbit before bringing him home. This is for the rabbit's protection, while his caretaker assesses and reduces the hazards of her home.
Cardiogenic shock from chewing electric cords is the most immediate danger to a free-roaming rabbit. Rabbits have an instinct to quickly and casually sever any cord or string. Especially tempting are cords that run across the rabbit's path, or through a burrow-like area, such as under the couch. "Bunny-proofing" means encasing electric cords in heavy-duty plastic, or blocking cords and outlets with furniture so the rabbit cannot reach them. It is the single most important step in preparing an indoor area for a rabbit.
While supervising a rabbit is not sufficient to prevent a quick bite through an electric cord, it is useful to observe and if necessary curtail the activities of a new rabbit. Rabbits under one year of age are daredevils, jumping up, over, under, and inside of furniture. "How high can a rabbit jump?" depends on the determination and athletic ability of the individual. A fall or entrapment, panic, thrashing and injury may result from the rabbit's misjudgment.
Generally, mature rabbits are less adventurous and, after a period of observation, may be given unsupervised freedom in a bunny-proofed home.
A rabbit's tendency to chew is often more inconvenient than hazardous, but house plants should be identified and poisonous ones removed. Synthetic materials, carpet in particular, if ingested in large quantities have the potential to block the rabbit's digestive system. This can be prevented by providing natural alternatives for chewing (hay, wood, cardboard, untreated straw mats); confining the rabbit to an uncarpeted area; and spaying or neutering the rabbit to lessen the urge to modify territory.
Ironically, a rabbit so mischievous she must be caged for her protection, faces another danger. Confinement may lead to boredom, overeating, lack of exercise, and digestive problems. Possible countermeasures include: a double-decker cage which allows hopping or climbing; hay for chewing; a cage-mate; plenty of toys; and as much supervised time outside the cage as possible.
A house rabbit often finds his cage a safe haven, returning there to eat or rest. However, a wire cage can also be a hazard if the rabbit catches his toenails, paws, or teeth in the wire. If a litterbox is offered within the cage, the cage may be constructed with a solid floor. Cardboard may also be used to cover a wire floor. In the case of a nervous rabbit, cardboard may be used to cover cage sides as well. For psychological security, a cardboard nestbox may be added to the cage.
Because companion rabbits behave boldly at times, caretakers may need to be reminded that rabbits are physically fragile. Fracture of the spine can occur if the rabbit struggles while inadequately supported or if abruptly released. Safe handling methods may not be intuitive, and practice is required.1 The adult caretaker must also protect the rabbit from handling by small children, and from roughhousing with other pets. If a house cat is a companion, kitty's claws should be trimmed. A dog should be trained and supervised before interaction with the rabbit is allowed. Two strange rabbits must be introduced slowly and carefully in order to avoid fighting.
A house rabbit may enjoy walking on a harness and leash. However, even the most confident bunny may panic if suddenly aware of open space, the constraint of the harness, and the approach of an unknown animal. It is best to stay within familiar areas when walking a rabbit.
Advice about hazards to companion rabbits may be met with skepticism from rabbit caretakers. "Flopsy ate through the TV cord and she's fine." "Harvey chases cats out of the yard." We don't deny that rabbits are resilient, resourceful animals. But when longevity of our companions is a priority, we cannot afford to be complacent about safety. Our response: "If you value your rabbit, and want him to grow old, eliminate the hazards within his environment."
Is it OK to keep my rabbit in a cage with a wire floor?
Rabbits were not designed to live on wire floors--they're hard on their feet (which have no pads on the, like cats or dogs). If you must use a cage with a wire floor, you need to provide your rabbit with a resting board or rug for her to sit on, otherwise she will spend all of her time in her litterbox.
You can find cages with slatted plastic floors, which are more comfortable, or you can use a solid floor. As long as your rabbit has a litterbox in the corner that he chooses as his bathroom, there shouldn't be much of a mess to clean up.
What size cage is best?
Bigger is better! A cage should be at least 4 times the size of your bunny--more if he is confined for a large amount of the day. You can build or buy your rabbit a two-storey "condo" with the floors connected by a ramp--they love this!
Can my new bunny run loose 24 hours a day?
An untrained rabbit probably should be kept in a cage while you're not home to supervise and at night when you sleep. Rabbits are crepuscular, which means that generally they sleep during the day and during the night but are ready to play at dawn and at twilight. Be sure to let them out during the evening when you are home, and if possible, in the morning while you get ready for work.
What can I do to make the rabbit's cage time more enjoyable?
A cage should be seen as the rabbit's "nest." A special place where he can feel safe and secure. Make the nest enjoyable and she will enjoy being there, even when the cage door is open! Keep it stocked with baby toys, a synthetic sheepskin rug, a piece of wood attached to the inside (like a baseboard), and when you put him to bed at night, a nice veggie or fruit snack.
When is it OK to let a rabbit run loose in the house?
When your rabbit is better trained, and when your house (or the part that your rabbit will have access to) has been sufficiently bunny-proofed, your rabbit can be allowed free run of the home (or part of it) even when you are not home. The more room your rabbit has to run around in, the more delightful you will find her as a companion.
Even when a rabbit has a lot of room to run around, he may still get bored. A bored rabbit is often a naughty rabbit. If you don't make every attempt to provide your rabbit with lots of entertainment, in the form of boxes, baskets, brooms, sticks, magazines, phone books, grass mats, etc., then he will make his own entertainment in your carpet, behind your couch or under your recliner.
Can I let my rabbit run loose outside?
Always supervise your rabbit when she's outside. It takes just a few seconds for the neighbor's dog to jump the fence and attack or frighten your rabbit to death.
Make sure that the grass has not been sprayed with pesticides or fertilizers. Check the yard for holes in the fence and poisonous plants.
Under no circumstances should rabbits be left outside after dark. Predators are possums, raccoons, skunks, coyotes, dogs and occasionally cats. If you have an outside enclosure that you feel is very secure, a rabbit can still die of fright while a predator taunts the rabbit from outside. For more info, see the Outdoor Harzards FAQ or the Rabbits Outdoors FAQ.
Rabbits were not designed to live on wire floors--they're hard on their feet (which have no pads on the, like cats or dogs). If you must use a cage with a wire floor, you need to provide your rabbit with a resting board or rug for her to sit on, otherwise she will spend all of her time in her litterbox.
You can find cages with slatted plastic floors, which are more comfortable, or you can use a solid floor. As long as your rabbit has a litterbox in the corner that he chooses as his bathroom, there shouldn't be much of a mess to clean up.
What size cage is best?
Bigger is better! A cage should be at least 4 times the size of your bunny--more if he is confined for a large amount of the day. You can build or buy your rabbit a two-storey "condo" with the floors connected by a ramp--they love this!
Can my new bunny run loose 24 hours a day?
An untrained rabbit probably should be kept in a cage while you're not home to supervise and at night when you sleep. Rabbits are crepuscular, which means that generally they sleep during the day and during the night but are ready to play at dawn and at twilight. Be sure to let them out during the evening when you are home, and if possible, in the morning while you get ready for work.
What can I do to make the rabbit's cage time more enjoyable?
A cage should be seen as the rabbit's "nest." A special place where he can feel safe and secure. Make the nest enjoyable and she will enjoy being there, even when the cage door is open! Keep it stocked with baby toys, a synthetic sheepskin rug, a piece of wood attached to the inside (like a baseboard), and when you put him to bed at night, a nice veggie or fruit snack.
When is it OK to let a rabbit run loose in the house?
When your rabbit is better trained, and when your house (or the part that your rabbit will have access to) has been sufficiently bunny-proofed, your rabbit can be allowed free run of the home (or part of it) even when you are not home. The more room your rabbit has to run around in, the more delightful you will find her as a companion.
Even when a rabbit has a lot of room to run around, he may still get bored. A bored rabbit is often a naughty rabbit. If you don't make every attempt to provide your rabbit with lots of entertainment, in the form of boxes, baskets, brooms, sticks, magazines, phone books, grass mats, etc., then he will make his own entertainment in your carpet, behind your couch or under your recliner.
Can I let my rabbit run loose outside?
Always supervise your rabbit when she's outside. It takes just a few seconds for the neighbor's dog to jump the fence and attack or frighten your rabbit to death.
Make sure that the grass has not been sprayed with pesticides or fertilizers. Check the yard for holes in the fence and poisonous plants.
Under no circumstances should rabbits be left outside after dark. Predators are possums, raccoons, skunks, coyotes, dogs and occasionally cats. If you have an outside enclosure that you feel is very secure, a rabbit can still die of fright while a predator taunts the rabbit from outside. For more info, see the Outdoor Harzards FAQ or the Rabbits Outdoors FAQ.
What are the basics of a good house rabbit diet?
A rabbit's diet should be made up of good quality pellets, fresh hay (alfalfa, timothy or oat), water and fresh vegetables. Anything beyond that is a "treat" and should be given in limited quantities.
What makes a good pellet?
Pellets should be fresh, and should be relatively high in fiber (18% minimum fiber). Do not purchase more than 6 weeks worth of feed at a time, as it will become spoiled. Pellets should make up less of a rabbit's diet as he or she grows older, and hay should be available 24 hours a day.
What kinds of veggies should I feed my rabbit?
When shopping for vegetables , look for a selection of different veggies--look for both dark leafy veggies and root vegetables, and try to get different colors. Stay away from beans and rhubarb. Here's a suggested veggie list.
Is feeding hay important?
Hay is essential to a rabbit's good health, providing roughage which reduces the danger of hairballs and other blockages. Apple tree twigs also provide good roughage.
What quantities of food should I feed babies and "teenagers"?
Birth to 3 weeks--mother's milk
3 to 4 weeks--mother's milk, nibbles of alfalfa and pellets
4 to 7 weeks--mother's milk, access to alfalfa and pellets
7 weeks to 7 months--unlimited pellets, unlimited hay (plus see 12 weeks below)
12 weeks--introduce vegetables (one at a time, quantities under 1/2 oz.)
What quantities of food should I feed young adults? (7 months to 1 year)
introduce timothy hay, grass hay, and oat hays, decrease alfalfa
decrease pellets to 1/2 cup per 6 lbs. body weight
increase daily vegetables gradually
fruit daily ration no more than 1 oz. to 2 oz. per 6 lbs. body weight (because of calories)
What quantities of food should I feed mature adults? (1 to 5 years)
Unlimited timothy, grass hay, oat hay, straw
1/4 to 1/2 cup pellets per 6 lbs. body weight (depending on metabolism and/or proportionate to veggies)
Minimum 2 cups chopped vegetables per 6 lbs. body weight
fruit daily ration no more than 2 oz. (2 TBL) per 6 lbs. body weight.
What quantities of food should I feed senior rabbits? (Over 6 years)
If sufficient weight is maintained, continue adult diet
Frail, older rabbits may need unrestricted pellets to keep weight up. Alfalfa can be given to underweight rabbits, only if calcium levels are normal. Annual blood workups are highly recommended for geriatric rabbits.
If I feed fewer pellets, how do I compensate?
When you feed a lower quantity of pellets, you must replace the nutritional value without the calories, which is done by increasing the vegetables. Also, a variety of hay and straw must be encouraged all day long, we do this by offering fresh hay a couple of times a day.
A rabbit's diet should be made up of good quality pellets, fresh hay (alfalfa, timothy or oat), water and fresh vegetables. Anything beyond that is a "treat" and should be given in limited quantities.
What makes a good pellet?
Pellets should be fresh, and should be relatively high in fiber (18% minimum fiber). Do not purchase more than 6 weeks worth of feed at a time, as it will become spoiled. Pellets should make up less of a rabbit's diet as he or she grows older, and hay should be available 24 hours a day.
What kinds of veggies should I feed my rabbit?
When shopping for vegetables , look for a selection of different veggies--look for both dark leafy veggies and root vegetables, and try to get different colors. Stay away from beans and rhubarb. Here's a suggested veggie list.
Is feeding hay important?
Hay is essential to a rabbit's good health, providing roughage which reduces the danger of hairballs and other blockages. Apple tree twigs also provide good roughage.
What quantities of food should I feed babies and "teenagers"?
Birth to 3 weeks--mother's milk
3 to 4 weeks--mother's milk, nibbles of alfalfa and pellets
4 to 7 weeks--mother's milk, access to alfalfa and pellets
7 weeks to 7 months--unlimited pellets, unlimited hay (plus see 12 weeks below)
12 weeks--introduce vegetables (one at a time, quantities under 1/2 oz.)
What quantities of food should I feed young adults? (7 months to 1 year)
introduce timothy hay, grass hay, and oat hays, decrease alfalfa
decrease pellets to 1/2 cup per 6 lbs. body weight
increase daily vegetables gradually
fruit daily ration no more than 1 oz. to 2 oz. per 6 lbs. body weight (because of calories)
What quantities of food should I feed mature adults? (1 to 5 years)
Unlimited timothy, grass hay, oat hay, straw
1/4 to 1/2 cup pellets per 6 lbs. body weight (depending on metabolism and/or proportionate to veggies)
Minimum 2 cups chopped vegetables per 6 lbs. body weight
fruit daily ration no more than 2 oz. (2 TBL) per 6 lbs. body weight.
What quantities of food should I feed senior rabbits? (Over 6 years)
If sufficient weight is maintained, continue adult diet
Frail, older rabbits may need unrestricted pellets to keep weight up. Alfalfa can be given to underweight rabbits, only if calcium levels are normal. Annual blood workups are highly recommended for geriatric rabbits.
If I feed fewer pellets, how do I compensate?
When you feed a lower quantity of pellets, you must replace the nutritional value without the calories, which is done by increasing the vegetables. Also, a variety of hay and straw must be encouraged all day long, we do this by offering fresh hay a couple of times a day.
8.1 Introduction
By nature, rabbits choose one or a few places (usually corners) to deposit their urine and most of their pills. Urine-training involves little more than putting a litterbox where the rabbit chooses to go. Pill training requires only that you give them a place they know will not be invaded by others. Here are some suggestions to help you to train your rabbit to use the litterbox.
8.2 Does age make a difference?
Older rabbits are easier to train than younger rabbits, especially babies. A rabbit's attention span and knack for learning increases as they grow up. If you have a baby, stick with it! And if you are deciding whether to adopt an older rabbit, or litter train your older rabbit, go for it!
8.3 Does Spaying/Neutering make a difference?
Yes! This is often the most important factor. When rabbits reach the age of 4-6 months, their hormones become active and they usually begin marking their territory. By spaying or neutering your rabbit, he will be more likely to use his litterbox (as well as be much healthier and happier).
8.4 What types of litter should I use?
It depends on what's available in your area and what your rabbit's habits are. Keep in mind the following as you choose your litter:
most rabbits spend lots of time in their litter boxes
rabbits will always nibble some of the litter
rabbit urine has a very strong odor.
House Rabbit Society recommends organic litters, made from alfalfa, oat, citrus or paper. (Some brands to look for: Care Fresh, Cat Country, Critter Country, Yesterday's News, and Papurr) For a complete listing of litter types, see the litter boxes and liver disease article.
Stay away from litters made from softwoods, like pine or cedar shavings or chips, as these products are thought to cause liver damage in rabbits who use them. CatWorks litter has been linked to zinc poisoning. Swheat Scoop Litter should be avoided, because rabbits will often ingest it. Because it is comprised of wheat, it is very high in carbohydrates and can cause obesity, excessive cecal production, diarrhea, bacterial imbalance, and other health issues.
Another approach is to place a handful of hay in each box, or to simply use hay as litter. It is helpful to put several layers of newspaper under the hay, to absorb urine so that your rabbit is not standing in the urine. Most newspapers today are using soy-based ink, which is safe for your rabbit, but check with your local newspaper to make sure first. Obviously, you need to change the hay fairly frequently (daily), since your rabbit will be eating it. This method often helps to encourage good litter habits as well as to encourage hay consumption, since rabbits often eat at or near the same time as they use the litter box.
Pros and cons of the various types of litter include:
clay litter is dusty--if your bunny is a digger, the dust can make her vulnerable to pneumonia
the deodorant crystals in some clay litters are toxic
clumping litters will clump inside the rabbit's digestive and respiratory tracts (the latter if they manage to make enough dust to breathe) causing serious problems and often leading to death
pine and cedar shavings emit gases that cause liver damage when breathed by the bunny
corn cob litter isn't absorbent and doesn't control odor, and has the the risk of being eaten and casing a lethal blockage.
oat- and alfalfa-based litters (available from Purina, Manna-Pro, and King-Soopers groceries [not sure what the geographical range of this chain is]) have excellent odor controlling qualities, but if a rabbit eats too much, they expand and cause bloating; these, too, can be added, with the bunny's waste, to compost
newspapers are absorbent, but don't control odor
citrus-based litters work well, offer no dangers, and can be composted, but may be hard to get and expensive in some areas of the country/world
some people have reported success with peat moss which can also be composted
Many people have great success with litter made from paper pulp or recycled paper products. These litters are very good at absorbing and cutting down on odors. A litter called CAREfresh is available. You can find out about local places that carry Carefresh by emailing absorbs@absorption-corp.com or by calling 1-800-242-2287 . A similar litter in a pelleted form is called Cellu-Dri 1-800-382-5001 . These litters are harmless if ingested.
Compressed sawdust pellets: are inexpensive, highly absorbent litters used in many foster homes. They are made from softwood or hardwood sawdust, but they are not toxic because the phenolic compounds are removed during their manufacture. Their wood composition helps control bacterial growth and odors. Wood stove fuel pellets and Feline Pine are two examples of this product.
Litters made from Aspen bark are safe and good at absorbing odors. One brand is called GentleTouch 1-800-545-9853 .
8.5 Cleaning and Disposal.
Clean litterboxes often, to encourage your rabbit to use them. Use white vinegar to rinse boxes out--for tough stains, let pans soak. Accidents outside of the cage can be cleaned up with white vinegar or club soda. If the urine has already dried, you can try products like "Nature's Miracle" to remove the stain and odor. To dispose of organic litters, they can be used as mulch, or can be composted. Rabbit pills can be directly applied to plants as fertilizer.
8.6 What kinds of cages work best?
Use a cage large enough to contain a small litterbox (along with bunny's food and water bows, toys, etc.) and still allow enough room for the rabbit to stretch out. Place the box in the corner of the cage that he goes in. With a litterbox in the cage, when the rabbit is confined to his cage when you're not home, cage time is learning time.
8.7 What if my cage is on legs or has a door that opens on top so the bunny can't get into it on his own?
If it is on legs, build a ramp or stairs, or pile boxes to make steps--anything so he can come and go on his own.
If the door is on top, put a small stool or box inside to help him get out, a board or piece of rug to help him walk to the edge of the cage, and a ramp, stairs, stool, or boxes to help him get down (and up again).
8.8 What if my cage is too small for a litter box or I don't use a cage?
If your cage is too small for a litter box, you may have a cage that is too small for your rabbit. Our Housing FAQ has lots of info on appropriate cages and enclosures.
Or you may have a dwarf rabbit and can't get a small litter box. A good substitute is a Pyrex baking dish. Even 9" x 9" is sufficient for a small 3 or 4 pound rabbit.
You may have a cage with wire on the bottom and a tray underneath that catches the urine. In this case, the tray is the litter box and the cage itself is where the bunny learns to go. You can often place the litter box in the tray, under the cage, so that you need not fill the entire bottom with litter. P> If you don't use a cage, you need to give the bunny a particular area to call its own. Just put a litter box wherever the bunny seems to prefer.
8.9 Pills vs. Urine.
All rabbits will drop pills around their cages to mark it as their own. This is not failure to be litter-trained. It is very important for your rabbit to identify the cage as her property so that when she leaves the cage for the bigger world of your house, she will distinguish the family's area from her own and avoid marking it. To encourage this, make the rabbit the king of his cage. Try not to force him in or out of it-- coax him. Do not do things to his cage that he doesn't like, or things to him that he doesn't like while he's in the cage.
The trick to getting the rabbit to keep his pills in the cage is to give him ownership of his cage--respect the cage as HIS:
Don't reach into the cage to take him out; open the door and let him come out if and when HE wants to come;
Don't catch him and put him back in the cage or it will be his prison, not his home. Herd him back gently, and let him choose to go in to get away from you (I walk behind my buns, clap my hands, and say "bedtime." They know that I'll not stop harassing them with this until they go into their cage, so they run in except when they feel they haven't gotten their fair share of time outside the cage.)
It's a bit like a child going home and closing the door, because someone is calling her names. They may make the playground an unpleasant place for her, but they can't bother her in her own home.
If the rabbit has been snuggling with you, it's okay to carry him to the door of the cage and let him go in--just don't put him directly into the cage, and never chase and trap him and put him in the cage.
Don't reach into the cage to get food dishes--anchor them near the door of the cage so they can be filled with a minimum of trespassing into the cage, or wait until the rabbit is out to fill them.
Don't clean the cage while the rabbit is in it--wait until he comes out. He'll come over and supervise you, even help you move things around that you've set down outside the cage, but as long as he isn't in the cage, he won't see your cleaning as an invasion of his territory. (Smart rabbits--I wouldn't object if someone were cleaning my house, either... :-) )
The same technique can be used if a rabbit doesn't live in a cage, but in a particular part of a room. Mark the territory with a rug, tape, whatever, and don't trespass over that.
8.10 Can the rabbit have a running space?
Even if your goal is to let your rabbit have full run of the house, you must start small. Start with a cage and a small running space, and when your rabbit is sufficiently well-trained in that space, gradually give her more space. But do so gradually! If you overwhelm her with too much freedom before she's ready, she will forget where her box is and will lose her good habits.
8.11 So what's the actual method?
Start with a box in the cage, and one or more boxes in the rabbit's running space. If she urinates in a corner of the cage not containing the box, move the box to that corner until she gets it right. Don't be concerned if your bunny curls up in his litterbox--this is natural. Once she's using the box in the cage, open her door and allow her into her running space. Watch her go in and out on her own. If she heads to a corner where there's no box, or lifts up her tail in the characteristic fashion, cry "no" in a single, sharp burst of sound. Gently herd her back to her cage and her litterbox, or into one of the boxes in her room. Be careful, however. You don't want to make the cage or the litterbox seem like punishment. A handful of hay in the box makes it a more welcoming place. After she first uses the box, praise her and give her her favorite treat. Once she uses the box in her room a couple of times, you're well on your way, as her habits will be on their way to forming. As she gets better trained in her first room, you can increase her space. Don't hurry this process. And if the area becomes very big, or includes a second floor, be sure to include more litterboxes, so as not to confuse her. Remember, as she becomes more confident and uses fewer boxes, you can start to remove some of her early, "training" boxes. Get your rabbit into a daily routine and try not to vary it. Rabbits are very habitual and once a routine is established, they usually prefer to stick with it.
8.12 How many litterboxes?
The more, the merrier, especially if your rabbit is a bit of a slow learner, or is especially obstinate about where she wants her box(es) to go. As her habits improve, you can decrease the number of litterboxes.
8.13 Kicking litter out of the box
Some rabbits love to kick their litter out of the box. You can get a covered litterbox (with a hood) to help solve this problem. You can also try experimenting with different litters.
8.14 Urinating over the edge of the litterbox
A second problem is that rabbits often back up so far in the litterbox that the urine goes over the edge. Again, a covered litterbox can solve this problem. Another solution would be to get a dishpan or other type of tub with much higher sides. Still another solution would be to get a "urine guard" to place around the back of the cage, to keep the litter from spraying outside of the cage.
8.15 What to do if your rabbit insists on using another spot?
Compromise. If your rabbit continually urinates in a spot where there is no litterbox, put his box where he will use it, even if it means rearranging his cage or moving a table in the living room. It is much easier to oblige him than to try to work against a determined bunny!
8.16 What are the most common litter training mistakes?
Letting the bunny out of the cage and not watching her with undivided attention;
(You can't watch TV or read the paper or knit or talk on the phone and expect to keep your mind on what the bunny is doing every second--if she urinates without being "caught" and herded to the litter box, she'll be that much slower in learning what she's supposed to do.)
Getting in a hurry.
Bunnies take time. Perhaps that's one of their special gifts to us in this hectic world. They require that we take time out to sit and watch and do nothing else. Besides getting a well-trained bunny for your efforts, you also get a short period of time each day to watch one of the most charming little creatures on earth explore, skip for joy, and in general entertain you with her bunny-ness.
8.17 What should I do if my rabbit starts dribbling all over her cage instead of using the litter box?
Dribbles usually indicate a bladder infection. Get your bunny to a rabbit-veterinarian who will probably put her on an antibiotic. If the dribbling stops, you know that that was the problem. (Watch out for antibiotics given by veterinarians not familiar with rabbits as companion animals!)
If the "dribbles" are more than dribbles, or if the antibiotic doesn't stop the problem, consider any factors that may be making your bunny feel insecure (new pet, house guests, change in location of cage, etc.), any of which can cause a bunny to mark her cage more enthusiastically (similar to someone having a dispute with a neighbor about the location of a fence setting up a flag at the property boundary marker).
8.18 Why does my rabbit urinate or leave pills right beside the litterbox?
The three most common things that are related to poor litter habbits (especially if the bun had been using the litterbox in the past) are:
Urinary Tract infections; sludge in the bladder; bladder stones; kidney disease. This should be treated by a qualified doctor.
A common example is Oreo, a 8.5 year Dutch who had 75% kidney failure and began urinating on the floor next to the litterbox when her problems first began. Hershey (her mate) did the same thing when he had a severe UTI last year. After the UTI was cleared up, he began to use the litterbox again.
Behavior related.
Once the possibility of physiological causes is eliminated, the behavioral reasons seem to go something like this:
Miz bun eliminates next to her litterbox because of some stress, eg, a break in her routine such as less or more running time than usual, visitors at home, kids home from college or summer camp, any intensely emotional event whether good or bad. it could even be a single incident such as being frightened by a sudden noise (car backfiring, etc) while she's in her box, which she then associates with being in the box. whatever the reason, she's feeling insecure and tries to rebuild her confidence by "underlining her signature" (signature being her droppings in the box; underlining, the puddles/piles beside it). Unless it's an ongoing stress that can be removed, figuring out the cause is not particularly relevant. the important factor is not what happened the first time but the habit that often grows from it. she pees beside the box today because she did it yesterday. many people do not take action for the first few incidents, especially with a rabbit who's always been good about using the litterbox. they figure it's a fluke that will disappear as suddenly as it started. this gives the habit time to take firm root. by day 3, the habit is fairly entrenched, and correction of the perceived cause will not solve the problem.
What WILL solve it? the usual: confinement, praise, rewards, vigilant observation and supervision during free-run time. but there's a catch-22 to this method. it generally requires a change in miz bun's routine, which is a common cause for the behavior in the first place. i know of no easy way around this knot. the hard way is to confine, praise, etc with minimal change to her usual routine. sometimes i add a box to the rabbit's area. the novelty makes the box attractive (as do treats placed in it). she hops in to investigate, and voila! she eliminates IN A BOX. this is good behavior, worthy of lavish rewards. it's often easier to get her to go in a new box than to go in the one she's been eliminating next to.
It's important for people to understand that this process can take time. A rabbit who's been perfectly box-trained for 3 years and has peed next to the box for 3 days may need 3 weeks of intensive training to get back to her old, good behavior. why is it that bad habits take longer to undo than to initiate while the reverse is true of good habits?
Territory related.
Winston, a religious litterbox user began urinating on the floor next to the litterbox near the gate...when Buttercup arrived on the opposite side of the gate. After Winston got used to Buttercup, and had "his" territory sufficiently marked, he stopped using the floor and resumed using the litterbox.
By nature, rabbits choose one or a few places (usually corners) to deposit their urine and most of their pills. Urine-training involves little more than putting a litterbox where the rabbit chooses to go. Pill training requires only that you give them a place they know will not be invaded by others. Here are some suggestions to help you to train your rabbit to use the litterbox.
8.2 Does age make a difference?
Older rabbits are easier to train than younger rabbits, especially babies. A rabbit's attention span and knack for learning increases as they grow up. If you have a baby, stick with it! And if you are deciding whether to adopt an older rabbit, or litter train your older rabbit, go for it!
8.3 Does Spaying/Neutering make a difference?
Yes! This is often the most important factor. When rabbits reach the age of 4-6 months, their hormones become active and they usually begin marking their territory. By spaying or neutering your rabbit, he will be more likely to use his litterbox (as well as be much healthier and happier).
8.4 What types of litter should I use?
It depends on what's available in your area and what your rabbit's habits are. Keep in mind the following as you choose your litter:
most rabbits spend lots of time in their litter boxes
rabbits will always nibble some of the litter
rabbit urine has a very strong odor.
House Rabbit Society recommends organic litters, made from alfalfa, oat, citrus or paper. (Some brands to look for: Care Fresh, Cat Country, Critter Country, Yesterday's News, and Papurr) For a complete listing of litter types, see the litter boxes and liver disease article.
Stay away from litters made from softwoods, like pine or cedar shavings or chips, as these products are thought to cause liver damage in rabbits who use them. CatWorks litter has been linked to zinc poisoning. Swheat Scoop Litter should be avoided, because rabbits will often ingest it. Because it is comprised of wheat, it is very high in carbohydrates and can cause obesity, excessive cecal production, diarrhea, bacterial imbalance, and other health issues.
Another approach is to place a handful of hay in each box, or to simply use hay as litter. It is helpful to put several layers of newspaper under the hay, to absorb urine so that your rabbit is not standing in the urine. Most newspapers today are using soy-based ink, which is safe for your rabbit, but check with your local newspaper to make sure first. Obviously, you need to change the hay fairly frequently (daily), since your rabbit will be eating it. This method often helps to encourage good litter habits as well as to encourage hay consumption, since rabbits often eat at or near the same time as they use the litter box.
Pros and cons of the various types of litter include:
clay litter is dusty--if your bunny is a digger, the dust can make her vulnerable to pneumonia
the deodorant crystals in some clay litters are toxic
clumping litters will clump inside the rabbit's digestive and respiratory tracts (the latter if they manage to make enough dust to breathe) causing serious problems and often leading to death
pine and cedar shavings emit gases that cause liver damage when breathed by the bunny
corn cob litter isn't absorbent and doesn't control odor, and has the the risk of being eaten and casing a lethal blockage.
oat- and alfalfa-based litters (available from Purina, Manna-Pro, and King-Soopers groceries [not sure what the geographical range of this chain is]) have excellent odor controlling qualities, but if a rabbit eats too much, they expand and cause bloating; these, too, can be added, with the bunny's waste, to compost
newspapers are absorbent, but don't control odor
citrus-based litters work well, offer no dangers, and can be composted, but may be hard to get and expensive in some areas of the country/world
some people have reported success with peat moss which can also be composted
Many people have great success with litter made from paper pulp or recycled paper products. These litters are very good at absorbing and cutting down on odors. A litter called CAREfresh is available. You can find out about local places that carry Carefresh by emailing absorbs@absorption-corp.com or by calling 1-800-242-2287 . A similar litter in a pelleted form is called Cellu-Dri 1-800-382-5001 . These litters are harmless if ingested.
Compressed sawdust pellets: are inexpensive, highly absorbent litters used in many foster homes. They are made from softwood or hardwood sawdust, but they are not toxic because the phenolic compounds are removed during their manufacture. Their wood composition helps control bacterial growth and odors. Wood stove fuel pellets and Feline Pine are two examples of this product.
Litters made from Aspen bark are safe and good at absorbing odors. One brand is called GentleTouch 1-800-545-9853 .
8.5 Cleaning and Disposal.
Clean litterboxes often, to encourage your rabbit to use them. Use white vinegar to rinse boxes out--for tough stains, let pans soak. Accidents outside of the cage can be cleaned up with white vinegar or club soda. If the urine has already dried, you can try products like "Nature's Miracle" to remove the stain and odor. To dispose of organic litters, they can be used as mulch, or can be composted. Rabbit pills can be directly applied to plants as fertilizer.
8.6 What kinds of cages work best?
Use a cage large enough to contain a small litterbox (along with bunny's food and water bows, toys, etc.) and still allow enough room for the rabbit to stretch out. Place the box in the corner of the cage that he goes in. With a litterbox in the cage, when the rabbit is confined to his cage when you're not home, cage time is learning time.
8.7 What if my cage is on legs or has a door that opens on top so the bunny can't get into it on his own?
If it is on legs, build a ramp or stairs, or pile boxes to make steps--anything so he can come and go on his own.
If the door is on top, put a small stool or box inside to help him get out, a board or piece of rug to help him walk to the edge of the cage, and a ramp, stairs, stool, or boxes to help him get down (and up again).
8.8 What if my cage is too small for a litter box or I don't use a cage?
If your cage is too small for a litter box, you may have a cage that is too small for your rabbit. Our Housing FAQ has lots of info on appropriate cages and enclosures.
Or you may have a dwarf rabbit and can't get a small litter box. A good substitute is a Pyrex baking dish. Even 9" x 9" is sufficient for a small 3 or 4 pound rabbit.
You may have a cage with wire on the bottom and a tray underneath that catches the urine. In this case, the tray is the litter box and the cage itself is where the bunny learns to go. You can often place the litter box in the tray, under the cage, so that you need not fill the entire bottom with litter. P> If you don't use a cage, you need to give the bunny a particular area to call its own. Just put a litter box wherever the bunny seems to prefer.
8.9 Pills vs. Urine.
All rabbits will drop pills around their cages to mark it as their own. This is not failure to be litter-trained. It is very important for your rabbit to identify the cage as her property so that when she leaves the cage for the bigger world of your house, she will distinguish the family's area from her own and avoid marking it. To encourage this, make the rabbit the king of his cage. Try not to force him in or out of it-- coax him. Do not do things to his cage that he doesn't like, or things to him that he doesn't like while he's in the cage.
The trick to getting the rabbit to keep his pills in the cage is to give him ownership of his cage--respect the cage as HIS:
Don't reach into the cage to take him out; open the door and let him come out if and when HE wants to come;
Don't catch him and put him back in the cage or it will be his prison, not his home. Herd him back gently, and let him choose to go in to get away from you (I walk behind my buns, clap my hands, and say "bedtime." They know that I'll not stop harassing them with this until they go into their cage, so they run in except when they feel they haven't gotten their fair share of time outside the cage.)
It's a bit like a child going home and closing the door, because someone is calling her names. They may make the playground an unpleasant place for her, but they can't bother her in her own home.
If the rabbit has been snuggling with you, it's okay to carry him to the door of the cage and let him go in--just don't put him directly into the cage, and never chase and trap him and put him in the cage.
Don't reach into the cage to get food dishes--anchor them near the door of the cage so they can be filled with a minimum of trespassing into the cage, or wait until the rabbit is out to fill them.
Don't clean the cage while the rabbit is in it--wait until he comes out. He'll come over and supervise you, even help you move things around that you've set down outside the cage, but as long as he isn't in the cage, he won't see your cleaning as an invasion of his territory. (Smart rabbits--I wouldn't object if someone were cleaning my house, either... :-) )
The same technique can be used if a rabbit doesn't live in a cage, but in a particular part of a room. Mark the territory with a rug, tape, whatever, and don't trespass over that.
8.10 Can the rabbit have a running space?
Even if your goal is to let your rabbit have full run of the house, you must start small. Start with a cage and a small running space, and when your rabbit is sufficiently well-trained in that space, gradually give her more space. But do so gradually! If you overwhelm her with too much freedom before she's ready, she will forget where her box is and will lose her good habits.
8.11 So what's the actual method?
Start with a box in the cage, and one or more boxes in the rabbit's running space. If she urinates in a corner of the cage not containing the box, move the box to that corner until she gets it right. Don't be concerned if your bunny curls up in his litterbox--this is natural. Once she's using the box in the cage, open her door and allow her into her running space. Watch her go in and out on her own. If she heads to a corner where there's no box, or lifts up her tail in the characteristic fashion, cry "no" in a single, sharp burst of sound. Gently herd her back to her cage and her litterbox, or into one of the boxes in her room. Be careful, however. You don't want to make the cage or the litterbox seem like punishment. A handful of hay in the box makes it a more welcoming place. After she first uses the box, praise her and give her her favorite treat. Once she uses the box in her room a couple of times, you're well on your way, as her habits will be on their way to forming. As she gets better trained in her first room, you can increase her space. Don't hurry this process. And if the area becomes very big, or includes a second floor, be sure to include more litterboxes, so as not to confuse her. Remember, as she becomes more confident and uses fewer boxes, you can start to remove some of her early, "training" boxes. Get your rabbit into a daily routine and try not to vary it. Rabbits are very habitual and once a routine is established, they usually prefer to stick with it.
8.12 How many litterboxes?
The more, the merrier, especially if your rabbit is a bit of a slow learner, or is especially obstinate about where she wants her box(es) to go. As her habits improve, you can decrease the number of litterboxes.
8.13 Kicking litter out of the box
Some rabbits love to kick their litter out of the box. You can get a covered litterbox (with a hood) to help solve this problem. You can also try experimenting with different litters.
8.14 Urinating over the edge of the litterbox
A second problem is that rabbits often back up so far in the litterbox that the urine goes over the edge. Again, a covered litterbox can solve this problem. Another solution would be to get a dishpan or other type of tub with much higher sides. Still another solution would be to get a "urine guard" to place around the back of the cage, to keep the litter from spraying outside of the cage.
8.15 What to do if your rabbit insists on using another spot?
Compromise. If your rabbit continually urinates in a spot where there is no litterbox, put his box where he will use it, even if it means rearranging his cage or moving a table in the living room. It is much easier to oblige him than to try to work against a determined bunny!
8.16 What are the most common litter training mistakes?
Letting the bunny out of the cage and not watching her with undivided attention;
(You can't watch TV or read the paper or knit or talk on the phone and expect to keep your mind on what the bunny is doing every second--if she urinates without being "caught" and herded to the litter box, she'll be that much slower in learning what she's supposed to do.)
Getting in a hurry.
Bunnies take time. Perhaps that's one of their special gifts to us in this hectic world. They require that we take time out to sit and watch and do nothing else. Besides getting a well-trained bunny for your efforts, you also get a short period of time each day to watch one of the most charming little creatures on earth explore, skip for joy, and in general entertain you with her bunny-ness.
8.17 What should I do if my rabbit starts dribbling all over her cage instead of using the litter box?
Dribbles usually indicate a bladder infection. Get your bunny to a rabbit-veterinarian who will probably put her on an antibiotic. If the dribbling stops, you know that that was the problem. (Watch out for antibiotics given by veterinarians not familiar with rabbits as companion animals!)
If the "dribbles" are more than dribbles, or if the antibiotic doesn't stop the problem, consider any factors that may be making your bunny feel insecure (new pet, house guests, change in location of cage, etc.), any of which can cause a bunny to mark her cage more enthusiastically (similar to someone having a dispute with a neighbor about the location of a fence setting up a flag at the property boundary marker).
8.18 Why does my rabbit urinate or leave pills right beside the litterbox?
The three most common things that are related to poor litter habbits (especially if the bun had been using the litterbox in the past) are:
Urinary Tract infections; sludge in the bladder; bladder stones; kidney disease. This should be treated by a qualified doctor.
A common example is Oreo, a 8.5 year Dutch who had 75% kidney failure and began urinating on the floor next to the litterbox when her problems first began. Hershey (her mate) did the same thing when he had a severe UTI last year. After the UTI was cleared up, he began to use the litterbox again.
Behavior related.
Once the possibility of physiological causes is eliminated, the behavioral reasons seem to go something like this:
Miz bun eliminates next to her litterbox because of some stress, eg, a break in her routine such as less or more running time than usual, visitors at home, kids home from college or summer camp, any intensely emotional event whether good or bad. it could even be a single incident such as being frightened by a sudden noise (car backfiring, etc) while she's in her box, which she then associates with being in the box. whatever the reason, she's feeling insecure and tries to rebuild her confidence by "underlining her signature" (signature being her droppings in the box; underlining, the puddles/piles beside it). Unless it's an ongoing stress that can be removed, figuring out the cause is not particularly relevant. the important factor is not what happened the first time but the habit that often grows from it. she pees beside the box today because she did it yesterday. many people do not take action for the first few incidents, especially with a rabbit who's always been good about using the litterbox. they figure it's a fluke that will disappear as suddenly as it started. this gives the habit time to take firm root. by day 3, the habit is fairly entrenched, and correction of the perceived cause will not solve the problem.
What WILL solve it? the usual: confinement, praise, rewards, vigilant observation and supervision during free-run time. but there's a catch-22 to this method. it generally requires a change in miz bun's routine, which is a common cause for the behavior in the first place. i know of no easy way around this knot. the hard way is to confine, praise, etc with minimal change to her usual routine. sometimes i add a box to the rabbit's area. the novelty makes the box attractive (as do treats placed in it). she hops in to investigate, and voila! she eliminates IN A BOX. this is good behavior, worthy of lavish rewards. it's often easier to get her to go in a new box than to go in the one she's been eliminating next to.
It's important for people to understand that this process can take time. A rabbit who's been perfectly box-trained for 3 years and has peed next to the box for 3 days may need 3 weeks of intensive training to get back to her old, good behavior. why is it that bad habits take longer to undo than to initiate while the reverse is true of good habits?
Territory related.
Winston, a religious litterbox user began urinating on the floor next to the litterbox near the gate...when Buttercup arrived on the opposite side of the gate. After Winston got used to Buttercup, and had "his" territory sufficiently marked, he stopped using the floor and resumed using the litterbox.
Why spay and neuter rabbits?
Altered rabbits are healthier and live longer than unaltered rabbits. The risk of reproductive cancers (ovarian, uterine, mammarian) for an unspayed female rabbit stands at is virtually eliminated by spaying your female rabbit. Your neutered male rabbit will live longer as well, given that he won't be tempted to fight with other animals (rabbits, cats, etc.) due to his sexual aggression.
Altered rabbits make better companions. They are calmer, more loving, and dependable once the undeniable urge to mate has been removed. In addition, rabbits are less prone to destructive (chewing, digging) and aggressive (biting, lunging, circling, growling) behavior after surgery.
Avoidance of obnoxious behavior. Unneutered male rabbits spray, and both males and females are much easier to litter train, and much more reliably trained, after they have been altered.
Altered rabbits won't contribute to the problem of overpopulation of rabbits. Over 7 million adorable dogs, cats, and rabbits are killed in animal shelters in this country every year. In addition, unwanted rabbits are often abandoned in fields, parks, or on city streets to fend for themselves, where they suffer from starvation, sickness, and are easy prey to other animals or traffic accidents. Those rabbits who are sold to pet stores don't necessarily fare any better, as pet stores sell pets to anyone with the money to buy, and don't check on what kind of home they will go to. Many of these rabbits will be sold as snake food, or as a pet for a small child who will soon "outgrow" the rabbit.
Altered rabbits can safely have a friend to play with. Rabbits are social animals and enjoy the company of other rabbits. But unless your rabbit is altered, he or she cannot have a friend, either of the opposite sex, or the same sex, due to sexual and aggressive behaviors triggered by hormones.
Spaying and neutering for rabbits has become a safe procedure when performed by experienced rabbit veterinarians. The House Rabbit Society has had over 1000 rabbits spayed or neutered with approximately .1% mortality due to anesthesia. A knowledgeable rabbit veterinarian can spay or neuter your rabbit with very little risk to a healthy rabbit. Don't allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits to spay or neuter your rabbit.
Is surgery safe on rabbits?
Surgery can be as safe on rabbits as on any animal. Unfortunately, the vast majority of veterinarians aren't experienced with safe rabbit surgery techniques. Don't allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits spay or neuter your rabbit. Using isofluorene as the anesthetic and appropriate surgical and after-surgery techniques, spaying and neutering of rabbits is as safe as for any other animal.
At what age should rabbits be spayed or neutered?
Females can be spayed as soon as they sexually mature, usually around 4 months of age, but many veterinarians prefer to wait until they are 6 months old, as surgery is riskier on a younger rabbit.
Males can be neutered as soon as the testicles descend, usually around 3-1/2 months of age, but many veterinarians prefer to wait until they are 5 months old.
When is a rabbit too old to be spayed or neutered?
veterinarians will have their own opinions on this, but in general, after a rabbit is 6 years old, anesthetics and surgery become more risky.
It is always a good idea, in a rabbit over 2 years of age, to have a very thorough health check done, including full blood work. This may be more expensive than the surgery, but it will help detect any condition that could make the surgery more risky. This is especially important if anesthetics other than isofluorene are used.
Can you tell if female rabbit has already been spayed?
The probability is very high that she hasn't.
One can shave the tummy and look for a spay scar. However, when veterinarians use certain stitching techniques, there is no scar whatsoever. Hopefully, these veterinarians will tattoo the tummy to indicate the spay has been done, but otherwise, the only way of knowing is to proceed with the surgery.
What does the surgery cost?
Spay/neuter costs vary tremendously in different areas of the country. The low end of the range can be as inexpensive as $50-75 (often in spay/neuter clinics), while vets in major metropolitan areas, where rents and labor costs are very high, often charge several hundred dollars.
How can I find a veterinarian that can do the surgery safely?
See Section 5.0 of this FAQ, How To Find a Good Rabbit Vet.
What kinds of questions should I ask the vet?
about how many rabbit clients does the veterinarian see in a year?
how many spays/neuters OF RABBITS has the veterinarian has done in the past year?
what was the success rate?
90% success is way too low. Every doctor, whether for animals or humans will occasionally lose a patient; usually because of an undiagnosed problem. veterinarians across the country who spay and neuter rabbits for the House Rabbit Society have lost on average less than 1/2 of 1%.
if any were lost, what was the cause?
does the veterinarian remove both uterus and ovaries? (they should)
does the veterinarian do "open" or "closed" neuters? (closed is preferable--let your veterinarian explain the difference)
is entry to the testicles made through the scrotum or the abdomen? (Entry via the abdomen unnecessarily increases the trauma for male rabbits)
does the veterinarian require withholding of food and water prior to surgery in rabbits? (It is better not to do this--rabbits can't vomit, so there is no risk of that during surgery, and rabbits should never be allowed to get empty digestive tracts)
what anesthetics are used (some veterinarians are quite successful with anesthetics other than isofluorene, but the bunny is "hung over" after surgery, which increases the probability that s/he will be slow to start eating again, which can lead to serious problems if not dealt with.
Review the procedure (op and immediate post-op) with your vet. Ask how problems will be detected: how often will they (the veterinarian and the techs) look in on your kid and what will they look for?. What will they do pre-op to find any potential problems? How will they support your bun in the hours after surgery: O2, warmth, quiet (barking dogs and yowling cats in the next cage are probably not helpful), and stimulation? What are they going to do to make it come out right?! Ask questions! That will get your veterinarian's attention. Let them know you're concerned and that you'll be paying attention.
What pre- and post-operative care should one give?
Give the rabbit acidophilus for a couple of days prior to surgery, just to be certain that the digestive system is functioning in fine form. Don't change the diet it any way during this time.
After the surgery, continue giving acidophilus until the appetite has returned to normal.
Inspect the incision morning and evening. After a neuter, the scrotum may swell with fluids. Warm compresses will help, but it is nothing to be overly concerned about. With any sign of infection, take the rabbit to the veterinarian immediately.
Keep a newly spayed female away from all male rabbits (neutered or not), as serious internal damage can be caused if a male mounts her.
After surgery, keep the environment quiet so the rabbit doesn't startle or panic, don't do anything to encourage acrobatics, but let the rabbit move around at her own pace-- she knows what hurts and what doesn't
Some veterinarians keep rabbits overnight. If your veterinarian lets you bring your bunny home the first night, note the following:
Most males come home after being neutered looking for "supper"-- be sure they have pellets, water, and some good hay (good, fresh alfalfa is a good way to tempt them to nibble a bit)
Most females want to be left alone, are not interested in eating at all, and will sit quietly in a back corner of the cage (or wherever in the house they feel they will be bothered the least)
The following morning, or at latest by the next evening, it is important for the rabbit to be nibbling something. It doesn't matter what or how much, as long as she is taking in something, so the digestive tract won't shut down. If she isn't, tempt her with everything possible, and as a last resort, make a mush of rabbit pellets (1 part pellets, 2 parts water, run through blender thoroughly, add acidophilus, and feed in pea-sized bits with a feeding syringe through the side of the mouth)
Occasionally a female will pull out her stitches. Get her stitched up again, and then belly-band her by wrapping a dish towel around her whole middle and binding that with an elastic bandage wrapped snuggly over it. If she can breath normally, it isn't too tight.
Altered rabbits make better companions. They are calmer, more loving, and dependable once the undeniable urge to mate has been removed. In addition, rabbits are less prone to destructive (chewing, digging) and aggressive (biting, lunging, circling, growling) behavior after surgery.
Avoidance of obnoxious behavior. Unneutered male rabbits spray, and both males and females are much easier to litter train, and much more reliably trained, after they have been altered.
Altered rabbits won't contribute to the problem of overpopulation of rabbits. Over 7 million adorable dogs, cats, and rabbits are killed in animal shelters in this country every year. In addition, unwanted rabbits are often abandoned in fields, parks, or on city streets to fend for themselves, where they suffer from starvation, sickness, and are easy prey to other animals or traffic accidents. Those rabbits who are sold to pet stores don't necessarily fare any better, as pet stores sell pets to anyone with the money to buy, and don't check on what kind of home they will go to. Many of these rabbits will be sold as snake food, or as a pet for a small child who will soon "outgrow" the rabbit.
Altered rabbits can safely have a friend to play with. Rabbits are social animals and enjoy the company of other rabbits. But unless your rabbit is altered, he or she cannot have a friend, either of the opposite sex, or the same sex, due to sexual and aggressive behaviors triggered by hormones.
Spaying and neutering for rabbits has become a safe procedure when performed by experienced rabbit veterinarians. The House Rabbit Society has had over 1000 rabbits spayed or neutered with approximately .1% mortality due to anesthesia. A knowledgeable rabbit veterinarian can spay or neuter your rabbit with very little risk to a healthy rabbit. Don't allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits to spay or neuter your rabbit.
Is surgery safe on rabbits?
Surgery can be as safe on rabbits as on any animal. Unfortunately, the vast majority of veterinarians aren't experienced with safe rabbit surgery techniques. Don't allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits spay or neuter your rabbit. Using isofluorene as the anesthetic and appropriate surgical and after-surgery techniques, spaying and neutering of rabbits is as safe as for any other animal.
At what age should rabbits be spayed or neutered?
Females can be spayed as soon as they sexually mature, usually around 4 months of age, but many veterinarians prefer to wait until they are 6 months old, as surgery is riskier on a younger rabbit.
Males can be neutered as soon as the testicles descend, usually around 3-1/2 months of age, but many veterinarians prefer to wait until they are 5 months old.
When is a rabbit too old to be spayed or neutered?
veterinarians will have their own opinions on this, but in general, after a rabbit is 6 years old, anesthetics and surgery become more risky.
It is always a good idea, in a rabbit over 2 years of age, to have a very thorough health check done, including full blood work. This may be more expensive than the surgery, but it will help detect any condition that could make the surgery more risky. This is especially important if anesthetics other than isofluorene are used.
Can you tell if female rabbit has already been spayed?
The probability is very high that she hasn't.
One can shave the tummy and look for a spay scar. However, when veterinarians use certain stitching techniques, there is no scar whatsoever. Hopefully, these veterinarians will tattoo the tummy to indicate the spay has been done, but otherwise, the only way of knowing is to proceed with the surgery.
What does the surgery cost?
Spay/neuter costs vary tremendously in different areas of the country. The low end of the range can be as inexpensive as $50-75 (often in spay/neuter clinics), while vets in major metropolitan areas, where rents and labor costs are very high, often charge several hundred dollars.
How can I find a veterinarian that can do the surgery safely?
See Section 5.0 of this FAQ, How To Find a Good Rabbit Vet.
What kinds of questions should I ask the vet?
about how many rabbit clients does the veterinarian see in a year?
how many spays/neuters OF RABBITS has the veterinarian has done in the past year?
what was the success rate?
90% success is way too low. Every doctor, whether for animals or humans will occasionally lose a patient; usually because of an undiagnosed problem. veterinarians across the country who spay and neuter rabbits for the House Rabbit Society have lost on average less than 1/2 of 1%.
if any were lost, what was the cause?
does the veterinarian remove both uterus and ovaries? (they should)
does the veterinarian do "open" or "closed" neuters? (closed is preferable--let your veterinarian explain the difference)
is entry to the testicles made through the scrotum or the abdomen? (Entry via the abdomen unnecessarily increases the trauma for male rabbits)
does the veterinarian require withholding of food and water prior to surgery in rabbits? (It is better not to do this--rabbits can't vomit, so there is no risk of that during surgery, and rabbits should never be allowed to get empty digestive tracts)
what anesthetics are used (some veterinarians are quite successful with anesthetics other than isofluorene, but the bunny is "hung over" after surgery, which increases the probability that s/he will be slow to start eating again, which can lead to serious problems if not dealt with.
Review the procedure (op and immediate post-op) with your vet. Ask how problems will be detected: how often will they (the veterinarian and the techs) look in on your kid and what will they look for?. What will they do pre-op to find any potential problems? How will they support your bun in the hours after surgery: O2, warmth, quiet (barking dogs and yowling cats in the next cage are probably not helpful), and stimulation? What are they going to do to make it come out right?! Ask questions! That will get your veterinarian's attention. Let them know you're concerned and that you'll be paying attention.
What pre- and post-operative care should one give?
Give the rabbit acidophilus for a couple of days prior to surgery, just to be certain that the digestive system is functioning in fine form. Don't change the diet it any way during this time.
After the surgery, continue giving acidophilus until the appetite has returned to normal.
Inspect the incision morning and evening. After a neuter, the scrotum may swell with fluids. Warm compresses will help, but it is nothing to be overly concerned about. With any sign of infection, take the rabbit to the veterinarian immediately.
Keep a newly spayed female away from all male rabbits (neutered or not), as serious internal damage can be caused if a male mounts her.
After surgery, keep the environment quiet so the rabbit doesn't startle or panic, don't do anything to encourage acrobatics, but let the rabbit move around at her own pace-- she knows what hurts and what doesn't
Some veterinarians keep rabbits overnight. If your veterinarian lets you bring your bunny home the first night, note the following:
Most males come home after being neutered looking for "supper"-- be sure they have pellets, water, and some good hay (good, fresh alfalfa is a good way to tempt them to nibble a bit)
Most females want to be left alone, are not interested in eating at all, and will sit quietly in a back corner of the cage (or wherever in the house they feel they will be bothered the least)
The following morning, or at latest by the next evening, it is important for the rabbit to be nibbling something. It doesn't matter what or how much, as long as she is taking in something, so the digestive tract won't shut down. If she isn't, tempt her with everything possible, and as a last resort, make a mush of rabbit pellets (1 part pellets, 2 parts water, run through blender thoroughly, add acidophilus, and feed in pea-sized bits with a feeding syringe through the side of the mouth)
Occasionally a female will pull out her stitches. Get her stitched up again, and then belly-band her by wrapping a dish towel around her whole middle and binding that with an elastic bandage wrapped snuggly over it. If she can breath normally, it isn't too tight.
Living with a House Rabbit
Why a House Rabbit?
Perhaps you've just adopted your first rabbit, or maybe you already have a rabbit and would like more information to help you understand her better. The House Rabbit Society, a national nonprofit organization, recommends that you keep your rabbit in the house rather than outdoors. Rabbits are intelligent, social animals who need affection, and they can become wonderful companion animals if given a chance to interact with their human families.
The benefits of spay and neuter
Although most rabbits will use a litterbox, hormones may cause unneutered males and unspayed females to "mark territory." Spaying or neutering your rabbit improves litterbox habits, lessens chewing behavior, decreases territorial aggression, and gives your rabbit a happier, longer life. Have your rabbit neutered between ages 3 1/2 to 6 months, depending on sexual maturity, by an experienced rabbit veterinarian.
For rabbits more than 2 years old, get a veterinary checkup first.
Housetraining
Rabbits may have free run of the home. However, it's best for most--and necessary for some--to start with a cage. To make cage time learning time, fasten a litterbox in the corner of the cage that your rabbit chooses for a "bathroom." As soon as he uses the box consistently, you can give him some freedom. Place one or more large litterboxes in corners of the running area outside the cage.
Use only positive reinforcement (treats and praise)--never punishment.
Bunny-proofing
Bunny-proofing your home is part of living with a house rabbit. It is natural for rabbits to chew on furniture, rugs, drapes, and, most deadly of all, electrical cords. Cords must be concealed so that the rabbit cannot reach them. Exposed cords can be encased in vinyl tubing (found at hardware stores). By splitting the tubing lengthwise with a utility knife the cord can be pushed inside it.
Give your rabbit enough attention, safe chewables, and toys, so that she is distracted from chewing furniture and rugs. A cardboard box stuffed with hay makes an inexpensive playbox. Young rabbits (under a year) are more inclined to mischief and require more confinement and/or bunny-proofing than mature rabbits.
House rabbits and other animals
House rabbits and indoor cats can get along fine, as do rabbits and well-mannered dogs. Dogs should be trained to respond to commands before being trusted with a free-running rabbit, and supervision is needed to control a dog's playful impulses (this is especially true for puppies). Adding a second rabbit is easiest if the rabbits are neutered adults of opposite sexes, and they are introduced for short periods in an area unfamiliar to both rabbits.
Major Health Problems
Intestinal blockages: Because rabbits groom themselves constantly, they get furballs just as cats do. Unlike cats, however, rabbits cannot vomit, and excessive swallowed hair may cause a fatal blockage. Rabbits can also develop a serious condition known as GI stasis which has many of the same symptoms.
If your rabbit shows a decrease in appetite and in the size of droppings, get advice from a rabbit veterinarian.
Prevention: keep bunny brushed (less hair is swallowed); provide exercise time/space--at least 30 hours a week; give a fresh handful of hay daily; add fresh vegetables gradually to the diet; give petroleum laxatives during a heavy molt or if synthetics have been swallowed.
Bacterial balance: A rabbit's digestive tract is inhabited by healthful bacteria. If the "good" bacteria balance is upset by stale food or a sudden change in diet, harmful bacteria can take over the digestive track and kill the rabbit.
Prevention: Keep all rabbit food in a cool dry place and make dietary changes slowly, giving a new food in small amounts. If no abdominal gurgling or loose stool results in 24 hours, the food may be offered again. If your rabbit goes outside, check for pesticides and toxic plants. (A list is available from your local poison center.)
Infectious bacteria: Many rabbit diseases are caused by bacteria, not viruses, and can be treated with antibiotics. If your rabbit shows symptoms of a "cold," take him to a veterinarian familiar with antibiotics that can be safely used in rabbits. Oral drugs of the Penicillin family, such as Amoxicillin, should NOT be given to a rabbit, since there is risk of destroying good intestinal bacteria.
It's up to you
Find an experienced rabbit doctor before a problem develops. If your rabbit has been harassed by a predator, take him to a veterinarian even if no injuries are apparent. When it is over, keep your rabbit cool with nearby wet towels or ice.
Regularly check eyes, nose, ears, teeth, weight, appetite, and droppings.
Danger Signs
Don't waste valuable time Call your veterinarian immediately if you see:
Diarrhea with listlessness
Sudden loss of appetite with bloat and abdominal gurgling
Loss of appetite with labored breathing
Loss of appetite with runny nose
Head tilt
Incontinence (urine-soaked rear legs)
Abscesses, lumps or swellings anywhere
Any sudden behavior change
Have List
HOUSING
Roomy cage
Resting board
Litterbox (in cage)
Pellet bowl or feeder
Water bottle/crock
Toys (chew & toss)
Pet carrier
RUNNING SPACE
Indoors:
Bunny-proofed room(s)
Litterbox
Toys (chew & dig)
Outdoors:
Fenced patio/porch/playpen (with floor)
CONSUMABLES
Limited pellets daily
Fresh water
Hay /straw (for digestive fiber and chewing recreation)
Fresh salad veggies/fruit (add gradually)
Barley/oats (verysmall amounts)
Wood (for chewing recreation)
Multiple enzymes (digestive aid)
Petroleum laxative (when needed for passing hair)
GROOMING
Flea comb
Brush
Flea products safe for rabbits (no Frontline!)
Toenail clippers
SUPPLIES
Dust-free litter (not wood shavings)
Pooper scooper
Whiskbroom/dustpan
White vinegar (for urine accidents)
Hand vacuum
Chlorine bleach (for disinfecting)
Newspapers
Perhaps you've just adopted your first rabbit, or maybe you already have a rabbit and would like more information to help you understand her better. The House Rabbit Society, a national nonprofit organization, recommends that you keep your rabbit in the house rather than outdoors. Rabbits are intelligent, social animals who need affection, and they can become wonderful companion animals if given a chance to interact with their human families.
The benefits of spay and neuter
Although most rabbits will use a litterbox, hormones may cause unneutered males and unspayed females to "mark territory." Spaying or neutering your rabbit improves litterbox habits, lessens chewing behavior, decreases territorial aggression, and gives your rabbit a happier, longer life. Have your rabbit neutered between ages 3 1/2 to 6 months, depending on sexual maturity, by an experienced rabbit veterinarian.
For rabbits more than 2 years old, get a veterinary checkup first.
Housetraining
Rabbits may have free run of the home. However, it's best for most--and necessary for some--to start with a cage. To make cage time learning time, fasten a litterbox in the corner of the cage that your rabbit chooses for a "bathroom." As soon as he uses the box consistently, you can give him some freedom. Place one or more large litterboxes in corners of the running area outside the cage.
Use only positive reinforcement (treats and praise)--never punishment.
Bunny-proofing
Bunny-proofing your home is part of living with a house rabbit. It is natural for rabbits to chew on furniture, rugs, drapes, and, most deadly of all, electrical cords. Cords must be concealed so that the rabbit cannot reach them. Exposed cords can be encased in vinyl tubing (found at hardware stores). By splitting the tubing lengthwise with a utility knife the cord can be pushed inside it.
Give your rabbit enough attention, safe chewables, and toys, so that she is distracted from chewing furniture and rugs. A cardboard box stuffed with hay makes an inexpensive playbox. Young rabbits (under a year) are more inclined to mischief and require more confinement and/or bunny-proofing than mature rabbits.
House rabbits and other animals
House rabbits and indoor cats can get along fine, as do rabbits and well-mannered dogs. Dogs should be trained to respond to commands before being trusted with a free-running rabbit, and supervision is needed to control a dog's playful impulses (this is especially true for puppies). Adding a second rabbit is easiest if the rabbits are neutered adults of opposite sexes, and they are introduced for short periods in an area unfamiliar to both rabbits.
Major Health Problems
Intestinal blockages: Because rabbits groom themselves constantly, they get furballs just as cats do. Unlike cats, however, rabbits cannot vomit, and excessive swallowed hair may cause a fatal blockage. Rabbits can also develop a serious condition known as GI stasis which has many of the same symptoms.
If your rabbit shows a decrease in appetite and in the size of droppings, get advice from a rabbit veterinarian.
Prevention: keep bunny brushed (less hair is swallowed); provide exercise time/space--at least 30 hours a week; give a fresh handful of hay daily; add fresh vegetables gradually to the diet; give petroleum laxatives during a heavy molt or if synthetics have been swallowed.
Bacterial balance: A rabbit's digestive tract is inhabited by healthful bacteria. If the "good" bacteria balance is upset by stale food or a sudden change in diet, harmful bacteria can take over the digestive track and kill the rabbit.
Prevention: Keep all rabbit food in a cool dry place and make dietary changes slowly, giving a new food in small amounts. If no abdominal gurgling or loose stool results in 24 hours, the food may be offered again. If your rabbit goes outside, check for pesticides and toxic plants. (A list is available from your local poison center.)
Infectious bacteria: Many rabbit diseases are caused by bacteria, not viruses, and can be treated with antibiotics. If your rabbit shows symptoms of a "cold," take him to a veterinarian familiar with antibiotics that can be safely used in rabbits. Oral drugs of the Penicillin family, such as Amoxicillin, should NOT be given to a rabbit, since there is risk of destroying good intestinal bacteria.
It's up to you
Find an experienced rabbit doctor before a problem develops. If your rabbit has been harassed by a predator, take him to a veterinarian even if no injuries are apparent. When it is over, keep your rabbit cool with nearby wet towels or ice.
Regularly check eyes, nose, ears, teeth, weight, appetite, and droppings.
Danger Signs
Don't waste valuable time Call your veterinarian immediately if you see:
Diarrhea with listlessness
Sudden loss of appetite with bloat and abdominal gurgling
Loss of appetite with labored breathing
Loss of appetite with runny nose
Head tilt
Incontinence (urine-soaked rear legs)
Abscesses, lumps or swellings anywhere
Any sudden behavior change
Have List
HOUSING
Roomy cage
Resting board
Litterbox (in cage)
Pellet bowl or feeder
Water bottle/crock
Toys (chew & toss)
Pet carrier
RUNNING SPACE
Indoors:
Bunny-proofed room(s)
Litterbox
Toys (chew & dig)
Outdoors:
Fenced patio/porch/playpen (with floor)
CONSUMABLES
Limited pellets daily
Fresh water
Hay /straw (for digestive fiber and chewing recreation)
Fresh salad veggies/fruit (add gradually)
Barley/oats (verysmall amounts)
Wood (for chewing recreation)
Multiple enzymes (digestive aid)
Petroleum laxative (when needed for passing hair)
GROOMING
Flea comb
Brush
Flea products safe for rabbits (no Frontline!)
Toenail clippers
SUPPLIES
Dust-free litter (not wood shavings)
Pooper scooper
Whiskbroom/dustpan
White vinegar (for urine accidents)
Hand vacuum
Chlorine bleach (for disinfecting)
Newspapers
How Long Does a Rabbit Live?
~Here are a few facts about rabbit longevity and life spans:
~Spayed or neutered house rabbits generally live 8 to 12 years.
~According to the Guiness Book of World Records, the oldest rabbit in the world lived to the age of 18.
~Larger rabbits generally have shorter lifespans than dwarf rabbits.
~Purebred rabbits generally have shorter lifespans than mixed breeds.
~An unspayed female rabbit is at very high risk for cancer.
~Outdoor rabbits have (on average) a much shorter lifespan because of the many risks and hazards associated with living outdoors.
~Spayed or neutered house rabbits generally live 8 to 12 years.
~According to the Guiness Book of World Records, the oldest rabbit in the world lived to the age of 18.
~Larger rabbits generally have shorter lifespans than dwarf rabbits.
~Purebred rabbits generally have shorter lifespans than mixed breeds.
~An unspayed female rabbit is at very high risk for cancer.
~Outdoor rabbits have (on average) a much shorter lifespan because of the many risks and hazards associated with living outdoors.
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